Certain iconic ingredients had to receive use restrictions – by IFRA Standards, government regulations or both – such as oakmoss. What problems do this ingredients poses? How has it been regulated? Matthias Vey, IFRA Vice President of Scientific Affairs, looks at the history of their IFRA Standards.
What is the history of incense and its trade? That’s the question answered in this article, which traces the history of the “Incense Route” over several centuries, from its earliest beginnings to the inscription of the Dhofar region in the Sultanate of Oman as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
A year after the release of its book Grasse, de la fleur au parfum published by Gallimard, innovators in nutrition, health, and beauty DSM-Firmenich continues to ramp up its approach to naturals. An approach that aims to “use science to harness nature and enhance its riches.” Xavier Brochet, Global Head of Natural Product Innovation, tells us more.
Frankincense, bakhoor, attars: perfume is deeply rooted in Omani culture, starting with the Latin roots of the word, per fumum, meaning through smoke. The love of fragrances can be found throughout the Middle East, inextricably linked to how people see themselves and others, to their personal values, to the social rituals that unfold in daily life or at special occasions.
Several scandals have hit the fragrance industry recently – while the word ethics is repeated over and over by the perfume brands. Maybe one of the keys lay in the fair remuneration of the first links in the chain? What seems obvious is yet far from being the rule. We offer an analysis of this burning issue, published in the last issue of Nez magazine.
Did you know that a better understanding of the origin of the rose’s fragrance would pave the way for innovations both in cosmetics and pharmacy? This is, among other things, what the CNRS research engineer and member of the GDR O3 Benoît Boachon explained to us.
Our day-to-day lives are being increasingly infiltrated by what is given the catchall name of artificial intelligence. Perfumers are no exception. So how does AI change our relationship with the creative process? Drawing on an historical analysis of his profession, Jean-Claude Ellena offers a review of these new technologies, often championed by the perfumery industry.
Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. Let's take a look at their botany and history, as well as the latest releases featuring them, with Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui and independent perfumer Anatole Lebreton.
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Although dsm-firmenich is best known for its expertise in synthetic molecules, the composition house has been present in Grasse since 2007. It has gradually put down roots in the town, culminating in 2020 with the acquisition of Villa Botanica, a nature-rich haven open to perfumers and clients the following year. It is now releasing a book that tells the story of this journey and reveals the four-season symphony at the heart of the world’s perfume capital.
The Bagatelle international new roses contest has been highlighting and honouring outstandingly beautiful and fragrant roses since 1907. Nez was one of the judges for the 116th edition alongside, among other jury members, Jeanne Bichet, an evaluator at Luzi. Let’s plunge our noses into the petals of tomorrow’s roses.
Some perfumes disappear as quickly as they appeared. And yet there are the perfumes that count, the ones that forever mark the life and career of a perfumer. Today, Mandy Aftel talks about Joy by Jean Patou, the scent her mother used to wear. An olfactory shock that inspired her vocation.
Cercle creates experiences and organises festivals and concerts that shine the spotlight on cultural and natural heritage with a fusion of music, aesthetics and showcasing artists and venues. Ugo Charron, Mane perfumer created its olfactory signature: Golden Hour scent will be diffused on 10 July in Geneva for a concert in front of Saint Pierre Cathedral.
In many ways, leather and perfumery have a similar history, always closely linked. Leather gloves have been perfumed since ancient times, although the profession of master glover-perfumer was not given formal status until much later. At the heart of the great perfumery classics, the leather accord is now making a strong comeback. Christine Nagel, in-house perfumer at Hermès, and Céline Perdriel, perfumer at Cosmo, take a closer look.
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Since 2002, IFF has multiplied the synergies between its perfumers, artists across disciplines and students from various art schools. The objective is twofold: give tomorrow’s designers chance to become well-versed in olfaction and to nourish the creativity of the company’s perfumers.
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place on May 31 and June 1 in Paris, we invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials. For the last leg of our journey, let’s embark for India, where LMR Naturals, IFF’s subsidiary for natural ingredients, has partnered with Nesso, a tuberose producer.
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials
for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place in Paris, we
invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials.
Let’s find out more about the Malagasy vanilla bean grown by Floribis, with whom Mane has established a partnership since 2000.
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place on May 31 and June 1 in Paris, we invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials. Today, let’s talk about ginger, grown and distilled in Madagascar by Symrise.
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place on May 31 and June 1 in Paris, we invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials. Let’s start with Firgood extraction method, unveiled by Firmenich at the exhibition two years ago.
When a lover of nature teams up with perfumers who know how to magnify it, creative ideas for honoring woods blossom. In this way, Fabrice Croisé has enabled an extraordinary forest of fragrances to grow at IFF.
Eugénie Briot, a specialist in the history of perfumery in the C19th, met with writer Jean-Luc Komada to discuss the olfactory universe of the actress, who died 100 years ago. On this occasion, we invite you to rediscover an article from Nez, The Olfactory Magazine #04 – Art and Perfume.
