Saskia Wilson-Brown, Art and Olfaction Awards: “The concept of perfumery we champion is universal.”

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Now that the Art and Olfaction Awards have been running for twelve years, what changes are you seeing in the brands and creators chosen as finalists?

The biggest change is in the geographic spread. Our Californian roots meant that the USA was particularly well represented when the awards began, followed by European brands and creators. Now we’re seeing a significant rise in Asian brands that are keen to be recognized and make their mark in international perfumery. These new places influence the fragrances we evaluate and the themes we’re seeing emerge: nature, for instance, with a noticeable trend this year for snow, memory, and of course – as always – love. There are also a number of mythology-related ideas that are even more deeply rooted in the culture of the places represented. The link between fragrance and spirituality is a regular feature, with an exploration of gray areas and mysteries that creates very open spaces for expression.
As for the fragrances themselves, gourmand notes are still very much present, but in different versions depending on where they’re from: lychee notes coming out of Asia are one example. Tea is also a recurring source of inspiration across the board. The classic materials in use are still, unsurprisingly, the most emblematic of ingredients, such as rose, jasmine and iris, but the story-telling behind them has changed a lot. Fragrances have become more conceptual, which I believe is due to the influence on perfumery of other areas of the arts, as well as practitioners in different fields who take an interest in scent and are jumping on board. And when it comes to the most frequently cited places that inspire creators, Paris and Naples remain firm favorites.

This year the US West Coast is hosting the World Perfumery Congress (WPC ) in Monterey as well as a new event, ScentFest in San Francisco. Is it a coincidence or is something new happening in this part of the planet?

After the Institute for Art and Olfaction’s 14 years of activities, we hope we’ve had an impact and brought our vision of scent creation here to the US West Coast. ScentFest and the WPC are looking to address the business aspect, while we’ve concentrated on a cultural approach that is more cross-cutting. The US has always had a very strong fragrance culture, particularly in the West. We’re seeing lots of connections with Asia, particularly South Korea. I also get the impression that “perfume is the new craft beer”. It’s a bit of a hipster movement, which tends to make me nervous because it’s the sort of trend that is liable to fall apart as quickly as it appeared! At the IAO, we try to take a “slow and study” approach. In any event, I want to wish ScentFest and the WPC every success, their presence here can only be a good thing. I sincerely hope the industry will follow the trend. That’s the main reason we’re been organizing the Art and Olfaction Awards prize-giving event abroad for the last few years – the industry isn’t on the West Coast. But creativity, the entrepreneurial spirit, Asian and Mexican influences definitely all are. I still firmly believe that everything is possible here!

You’ll soon be heading to Greece for the prize-giving. What other plans does the IAO have for the coming years?

Next November we’re organizing the Panamerican Scent Summit in Mexico City, as well as the Awards prize-giving event. It’s vital that we continue to build close ties with Mexico and, more broadly, our neighbors in Central America and South America. Next year, I hope we’ll be able to hold the Awards prize-giving ceremony in Asia, then possibly in Paris. The IAO does it best to stay as international as possible, because the concept of perfumery we champion is universal.

Read all about the 2026 winners at https://thegoldenpears.com/home

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