Perfumery and sustainable development: behind the messaging
Brand messaging regularly gives the impression that natural perfumery is all there is to sustainable perfumery, playing on the mirage conveyed by rose pickers happily at work as the sun peeps over the horizon. Can naturalness be so easily considered the best way towards a more responsible production?
History
Today, Australia has overtaken India as the largest producer of sandalwood, where the sacred tree originated. As the world’s leading sandalwood exporter, Quintis has built a long-term development strategy to ensure both consistent yields and prices.
Interviews
ScenTree, the classification tool for perfumery raw materials, is celebrating its second anniversary. A look back at these years of reflection, changes and achievements.
Interviews
Ricardo Omori is Vice President of the Fine Fragrance division at Symrise. According to him, the “red island” in the Indian Ocean is an extraordinary place, which owes as much to the plants that grow there as to the people using them to create exceptional ingredients for perfumery.
Interviews
Yves Cassar has been a perfumer for IFF since 1998. He has created many successes, alone or with a team. We asked him about vetiver.
Interviews
Julie Massé is a perfumer at Mane since 2010. We asked her about vanilla.
Interviews
Céline Barel has been a perfumer at IFF since 2001, creating Aesop’s Tacit, Zoologist’s Squid, Jo Malone’s Vanilla & Anise, and Maison d’Etto’s Canaan and Durban Jane.
Interviews
Representing the fifth generation of his family to work at Robertet, Julien Maubert holds the post of Head of Raw Materials. Keen to reconcile family heritage with innovation, the group combines tried and-tested traditional methods with sustainable sourcing.
Interviews
Alexandra Carlin is a Symrise
perfumer. She spoke to us about how
Madagascan ginger became one of
her favorite fragrance ingredients.
Interviews
As a chemistry graduate, Frédéric Badie first joined Mane to train in formulating natural ingredients. From there he went to Charabot, where he worked on olfactory and analytical control before becoming a perfumer at CAL-Chauvet. He is currently R&D director at Payan Bertrand.
Interviews
He loves the finer things in life, including wine and haute cuisine. He has launched his own brand, Mark Buxton Perfumes, and is co-founder of the Nose perfumery concept store in Paris.
News
A hundred years after the first botanical trials were run there, Madagascar remains an extraordinary open-air laboratory.
News
In late 2020, Symrise surprised us all by launching a collection of 100% natural ingredients produced from vegetables for its perfumers to use in creating fragrances. A look at the origins of this innovation.
Natural perfumers
When they work for several brands, perfumers have to deal with different accepted definitions of what is natural as well as various specifications. How do they cope? And how does the formulating process differ between natural and traditional perfumes? We asked Caroline Dumur, a perfumer at IFF.
Natural perfumers
Givaudan is launching Blossom Lab™, the first mobile extraction and innovation laboratory for processing natural raw materials directly in the field. These new responsible naturals are taking Givaudan’s palette further along the eco-design path.
Perfume
Mane is bringing together the historic technique of enfleurage and supercritical fluid extraction to introduce original notes to perfumers’ palette, with minimal impact on the environment.
Interviews
After emerging in the 1960s and 1970s, supercritical CO2 extraction is now carving an ever-bigger place for itself in the perfumer’s palette.
Interviews
Perfumer Suzy Le Helley (Symrise) tells us the story of the close-knit collaboration with Madagascar small-scale producers and the issues involved.
Interviews
Juliette Karagueuzoglou, senior perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), details the different fields of innovation at Laboratoire Monique Rémy (LMR).
Interviews
Reliant as it is on the biodiversity that humankind has explored extensively, the palette of natural ingredients may seem immutable as Serge Majoullier shows us.
