Behind the scenes of the creative process: has the time come for perfume credits?
Who is really the author of a fragrance? While perfumers are increasingly in the limelight, the other contributors continue to remain anonymous. Why is this?
Perfume
Secrets and lies in perfumery
“Abandon all hope of hearing the truth, ye who enter here”: words we might well be tempted to say to the novice taking an interest in perfumery. There is no denying that inventions, secrets and lies are legion in the fragrance universe.
From open secrets to copycat lies, lies of omission to workshop secrets, here is a brief overview of the deceptive discourse employed. Because, on the one hand, we have to laugh. And, on the other hand, the cult of mystery occasionally has its reasons, and it can be interesting to explore them.
Christmas’ smells
The fresh, resinous scent of the fir tree, a crackling fire and comforting spices… To shine during family dinners, we offer you a dissection of the olfactory atmosphere of Christmas, originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.
Renaud Salmon: “The frankincense industry deserves more transparency”
In Oman, the creative director of Amouage, a company founded in the sultanate in 1983, is overseeing a vast project that will combine responsible production of the precious resin with tourism and cultural activities.
Perfumers: A team spirit
Although perfumers at IFF have long been accustomed to working together, the company went a step further by making the collaborative approach official in the early 21st century. An approach that has since been adopted by all the composition houses. Behind the scenes of a revolution.
Missing Person: a special someone is missing and suddenly there’s no more stock
Over the last few weeks, a perfume has been creating a buzz on social media and in the beauty press: Missing Person by Phlur, often described somewhat lazily as “mysterious” in articles about the phenomenon. Here’s our olfactory and strategic analysis of this marvel for you!
Gayil Nalls: “World Sensorium has always been about environmentalism”
Artist Gayil Nalls is the founder of the World Sensorium Conservancy (WSC), an organization dedicated to the preservation of aromatic and medicinal plants faced with climate change : a multi-faceted project based on a long-running artistic endeavor. Interview.
From mouth to nose: when flavours become fragrances
Behind the evident familiarity of food notes lies a creative challenge for perfumers. Providing them with innovative ingredients so they can reach beyond a literal interpretation and come up with inventive signature compositions is one of Mane’s core missions.
Max Forti, ScentXplore founder: “Our main goal is to connect brands, consumers, perfumers, experts and content creators”
In 2019, Max Forti launched ScentXplore in New York, connecting perfume professionals and enthusiasts. After two virtual sessions, the event returns this December 2 and 3, 2022 in a hybrid format, with Nez as its new partner. Interview.
Marcel Proust: Of chamber pots and vessels of perfume
In his saga, the asthmatic writer portrays a hypersensitive narrator whose nose is just as fine as his palate. On the occasion of the centenary of his death this November 18, 2022, we offer you an article originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #13, which returns to the role of odors in the work of the author.
Woody ambers: the nasal invaders
You smell them everywhere without knowing it, these mystery compounds. When, how and why did woody ambers invade perfumery? Here is our attempt at an answer for you: some facts, some history, and a healthy dose of subjectivity!
The press kit: The art of staging the immaterial
How do the different players contribute to the creation, publication and evolution of the press kit, a tool of the trade that conditions the discourse of journalists and, in turn, the image of perfumery?
To complete our series « Reinventing perfumery discourse », we offer you an article originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.
Christophe Laudamiel: “50% of perfumery is plagiarism or remixes, it’s time to adopt a code of ethics”
The independent perfumer who worked with Procter & Gamble and IFF and now creates fragrances for The Zoo, Strangelove NYC, Richmess and BéLAir Lab Tokyo is calling for a revolution in a bid to build tomorrow’s perfumery, a more ethical and more creative perfumery where the perfumer’s role as author is recognised. We talked to him.
Flyn Roberts, Beautyworld Middle East Show Director: “For anyone in the beauty industry, it truly is an unmissable trade show”
Beautyworld Middle East is a meeting place for professionals of the beauty and perfumery industry as well as for trade visitors. The next edition will take place from October 31 to November 2, 2022 at the Dubai World Trade Center. Flyn Roberts, its Show Director, tells us more about the event’s purposes and programm.
Olfactory dissonance, between discourse and reality
Endless fields of Grasse roses, eco-responsible patchouli and a few drops of the loveliest organic lavender: it appears that mainstream brands fill their bottles exclusively with extracts that are ever more sustainable, ethical and mindful. What if perfumery tried a different approach to talking about its creations?
Reinventing perfumery discourse
Myths, legends, misleading revelations, distorted reality: the perfumery industry has always tended to shroud itself in mystery, fostering a cult of secrecy and sometimes even disseminating lies. Has the time finally come to shift the dial?
Salty notes, sea spray and tastebuds
Often used to conjure up an ocean feel, salty notes are primarily rooted in the sense of taste. An overview of how salt is interpreted in perfumery, as seen through the eyes of Aliénor Massenet (Symrise) and Cécile Matton (Mane).
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Vetiver, shadow and light
Although this tropical plant has long been a classic in perfumery, it recently seems to be attracting renewed interest. An overview of its botanical roots and olfactory developments, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d'empire) and Quentin Bisch (Givaudan).
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Scents with superpowers
In this age of personal development and the pursuit of equilibrium, it’s no longer enough to simply smell good – you also have to feel good. On the occasion of the World Mental Health Day, we offer you an article originally published in Nez magazine about the influence of odors on our mood.
Anise notes: aromatic intoxication
As evocative as they are divisive, anise notes encompass a variety of ingredients. An overview of their olfactory interpretations, as seen through the eyes of Caroline Dumur (IFF) and Ilias Ermenidis (Firmenich).
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