For the past few months, the perfume world has been taking a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental,” which is perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. Let’s look at the olfactory issues behind this family of perfumes.
The loss of smell and national lockdowns were a blow to the perfume industry, but they also managed to initiate necessary rethinking in the sector. In order to respond to emerging societal challenges, Firmenich is laying the foundations for a new paradigm in perfumery.
A major world event for niche perfumery, the Milanese Esxence trade show was held under the shelter of the June sun, in a large hall transformed into a labyrinth of brands. Here’s an overview of the discoveries and upcoming launches.
The 10 finalists for Quintis’ Sandalwood Reimagined competition were recently unveiled, with the two winners to be announced at WPC in Miami in early July. Who were the five senior perfumers chosen, and what inspired them? Here are their profiles.
Founded in Warsaw in 2005, Galilu offers a rich selection of about fifty niche perfume and cosmetic brands. Its owner, Agnieszka Lukasik, answered Nez’ questions.
Officially launched in Esxcence in 2015, the Turkish brand Nishane, born in Istanbul three years before, pays tribute to the roots, art and history of the city, half-way through West and Eastern traditions. Interview.
In 2011, Luca Maffei and his father founded the composition house Atelier Fragranze Milano (AFM). With French perfumer Antoine Lie acting as consultant, the company works exclusively with the niche sector. Interview.
After cofounding a design agency, Americans Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood came up in 2002
with the idea of creating Luckyscent, their own e-commerce site specialising in niche
fragrances. Interview.
After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014, powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. Interview.
In 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. It offers a selection of around sixty brands and a resolutely different approach to sales and customer experience. Interview with Liam Sardea, education manager.
Founded in 1975, Le Jardin retrouvé is one of niche perfumery’s pioneer brands, fruit of the avant-garde vision of its creator Yuri Gutsatz. Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz, who took over in 2016, bring a real passion to continuing the brand’s legacy.
Launched in Paris in 2014, Dusita is present in 60 countries around the world as a brand with a unique universe, rooted in the Thai culture of its founder. A collector of vintage fragrances turned self-taught perfumer, Pissara Umavijani pays tribute to her native country and her father’s poetry with a style nourished by European influences. Interview.
Cécile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company and works with a wide range of brands, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. Interview.
Although Le Paravent founder Serge Laugier originally saw the shop as a high-end decoration outlet, it has become a benchmark for niche perfumery in Lyon. Located in the city centre art gallery district, the shop is fully committed to an artistic and independent vision of olfactory creation. Interview.
Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand’s founder.
When Karine Torrent founded Floratropia, her own brand, in 2019, she opted for 100% natural perfumes, both for artistic and ethical reasons. Interview.
Based in the Grand Sablon district in central Brussels, Beauty by Kroonen is a concept store featuring forty or so niche perfume brands alongside health and beauty products, all carefully chosen by founder Ioana and her team. We interviewed her colleague, Sylviane.
As Esxence, the niche perfumery fair, prepares to open its doors in Milan from 15 to 18 June 2022, Nez caught up with a number of figures from the world of niche fragrances, in a series of interviews with perfumers, stores and brands. But, putting common misapprehensions aside, what lies behind the term that is as much overused as it is decried?
Firmenich’s shift to conscious perfumery, far from curbing perfumers’ creativity, has instead proved to be a source of innovation and inspiration.
The history of Fabriques de Laire uniquely embodies modern perfumery, mainly through its famous bases, products of the intuition, vision and inventiveness of the company’s founders and successive collaborators.
