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Aurélien Guichard, whose hometown is Grasse, joined Takasago in 2018, after roles as a perfumer with Givaudan and Firmenich. He is the nose behind Narciso for Narciso Rodriguez, Gucci Guilty, and Encens suave and Radical Rose for his own brand, Matière première.
Interview from the chapter dedicated to the Biomuguet and Biocyclamol, in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material (see below)
How would you describe the scent of Biomuguet and Biocyclamol?
Both are green floral notes. Biomuguet is also tender and ozonic. I find it very natural, akin to the fragrance you get from crushing the petals of white flowers like lily of the valley and magnolia. Biocyclamol is astonishingly long-lasting.
What do the molecules add to a composition?
Classic lily of the valley notes can bring a certain density with their green, white floral, animalic facets. Conversely, Biomuguet and Biocyclamol have a pure aspect – a form of abstraction – that I really appreciate. They give a composition suppleness, light and binding power, rounding off its
sharp corners and playing down the slight roughness of certain green or citrusy notes, for instance. They also bring shape, rhythm, modernity and richness. They serve the other ingredients: You could describe them as natural material enhancers.
What type of accord do you like to use them in?
Their abstract floral profile makes them particularly suitable for compositions for women, where they help soften woody or chypre notes. For instance, I used Biomuguet in Narciso Eau de parfum ambrée. For this creation, which I thought of as sculpting light, I combined it with woody, musky notes. For me, lily of the valley marries perfectly with musks, since the two have much in common – purity, whiteness, roundness and abstraction, for instance.
- More about Takasago: www.takasago.com
This interview is from:
De la plante à l’essence – Un tour du monde des matières à parfums
From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material
(Français-English), Nez éditions, Collectif, 2021, 45$/30€
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