Anise notes: aromatic intoxication

As evocative as they are divisive, anise notes encompass a variety of ingredients. An overview of their olfactory interpretations, as seen through the eyes of Caroline Dumur (IFF) and Ilias Ermenidis (Firmenich).

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Cannabis, the transgressive green

The last few years have seen an increasing number of creations inspired by marijuana.
An overview of the olfactory interpretations of the plant, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) and Nicolas Beaulieu (IFF).

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Speed Smelling 2022 from IFF: On a transatlantic air

This year, the thirteen perfumers of the composition house worked around the theme “An American in Paris.” The theme was conducive to creative freedom and praise for the “captive” molecules, patented by the company.

Perfumery disoriented, part 2: Orientalism & colonial aesthetics

In recent months, the perfume world has taken a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental.” After discussing the difficulties of olfactory classification in Part 1, let’s study the influence of 19th-century colonial aesthetics on the industry’s imagination.

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Perfumery disoriented, part 1: Ambery or Oriental? A family story

For the past few months, the perfume world has been taking a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental,” which is perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. Let's look at the olfactory issues behind this family of perfumes.

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Esxence 2022: You can smell the niche from miles away

A major world event for niche perfumery, the Milanese Esxence trade show was held under the shelter of the June sun, in a large hall transformed into a labyrinth of brands. Here’s an overview of the discoveries and upcoming launches.

Quintis Sandalwood competition finalists, Global Winner category

The 10 finalists for Quintis’ Sandalwood Reimagined competition were recently unveiled, with the two winners to be announced at WPC in Miami in early July. Who were the five senior perfumers chosen, and what inspired them? Here are their profiles.

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Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouvé): “We’re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy”

Founded in 1975, Le Jardin retrouvé is one of niche perfumery’s pioneer brands, fruit of the avant-garde vision of its creator Yuri Gutsatz. Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz, who took over in 2016, bring a real passion to continuing the brand’s legacy.

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Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): “The hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers”

Launched in Paris in 2014, Dusita is present in 60 countries around the world as a brand with a unique universe, rooted in the Thai culture of its founder. A collector of vintage fragrances turned self-taught perfumer, Pissara Umavijani pays tribute to her native country and her father’s poetry with a style nourished by European influences. Interview.

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Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): “It’s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have a unique olfactory signature”

Although Le Paravent founder Serge Laugier originally saw the shop as a high-end decoration outlet, it has become a benchmark for niche perfumery in Lyon. Located in the city centre art gallery district, the shop is fully committed to an artistic and independent vision of olfactory creation. Interview.

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Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): “Whether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one”

Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand’s founder.

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With the support of our principal partners

IFRA