Anise notes: aromatic intoxication
As evocative as they are divisive, anise notes encompass a variety of ingredients. An overview of their olfactory interpretations, as seen through the eyes of Caroline Dumur (IFF) and Ilias Ermenidis (Firmenich).
Perfume
Cannabis, the transgressive green
The last few years have seen an increasing number of creations inspired by marijuana.
An overview of the olfactory interpretations of the plant, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) and Nicolas Beaulieu (IFF).
Emmanuelle Dancourt and Ugo Charron: “With Umema, we used the sense of touch to enter into olfactory territory”
Journalist Emmanuelle Dancourt suffers from congenital anosmia. But is also the source of inspiration for Umema, a fragrance composed by Mane perfumer Ugo Charron. They tell us how it came about, the result of a unique and synaesthetic experiment.
Speed Smelling 2022 from IFF: On a transatlantic air
This year, the thirteen perfumers of the composition house worked around the theme “An American in Paris.” The theme was conducive to creative freedom and praise for the “captive” molecules, patented by the company.
Perfumery disoriented, part 2: Orientalism & colonial aesthetics
In recent months, the perfume world has taken a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental.” After discussing the difficulties of olfactory classification in Part 1, let’s study the influence of 19th-century colonial aesthetics on the industry’s imagination.
Perfumery disoriented, part 1: Ambery or Oriental? A family story
For the past few months, the perfume world has been taking a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental,” which is perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. Let’s look at the olfactory issues behind this family of perfumes.
Well-being, Artificial Intelligence and Eco-Responsibility: A New Era for Perfumery
The loss of smell and national lockdowns were a blow to the perfume industry, but they also managed to initiate necessary rethinking in the sector. In order to respond to emerging societal challenges, Firmenich is laying the foundations for a new paradigm in perfumery.
Esxence 2022: You can smell the niche from miles away
A major world event for niche perfumery, the Milanese Esxence trade show was held under the shelter of the June sun, in a large hall transformed into a labyrinth of brands. Here’s an overview of the discoveries and upcoming launches.
Quintis Sandalwood competition finalists, Global Winner category
The 10 finalists for Quintis’ Sandalwood Reimagined competition were recently unveiled, with the two winners to be announced at WPC in Miami in early July. Who were the five senior perfumers chosen, and what inspired them? Here are their profiles.
Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): “Now, the brands come to us”
Founded in Warsaw in 2005, Galilu offers a rich selection of about fifty niche perfume and cosmetic brands. Its owner, Agnieszka Lukasik, answered Nez’ questions.
Murat Katran and Mert Guzel (Nishane): “Istanbul is literally a bridge between cultures”
Officially launched in Esxcence in 2015, the Turkish brand Nishane, born in Istanbul three years before, pays tribute to the roots, art and history of the city, half-way through West and Eastern traditions. Interview.
Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): “Niche perfumery allows me to take risks”
In 2011, Luca Maffei and his father founded the composition house Atelier Fragranze Milano (AFM). With French perfumer Antoine Lie acting as consultant, the company works exclusively with the niche sector. Interview.
Franco Wright (Luckyscent): “Ultimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions”
After cofounding a design agency, Americans Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood came up in 2002
with the idea of creating Luckyscent, their own e-commerce site specialising in niche
fragrances. Interview.
Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): “For me, niche is a definition of beauty”
After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014, powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. Interview.
Liam Sardea (LKNU): “We try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos”
In 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. It offers a selection of around sixty brands and a resolutely different approach to sales and customer experience. Interview with Liam Sardea, education manager.
Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouvé): “We’re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy”
Founded in 1975, Le Jardin retrouvé is one of niche perfumery’s pioneer brands, fruit of the avant-garde vision of its creator Yuri Gutsatz. Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz, who took over in 2016, bring a real passion to continuing the brand’s legacy.
Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): “The hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers”
Launched in Paris in 2014, Dusita is present in 60 countries around the world as a brand with a unique universe, rooted in the Thai culture of its founder. A collector of vintage fragrances turned self-taught perfumer, Pissara Umavijani pays tribute to her native country and her father’s poetry with a style nourished by European influences. Interview.
Cécile Zarokian: “It’s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses”
Cécile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company and works with a wide range of brands, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. Interview.
Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): “It’s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have a unique olfactory signature”
Although Le Paravent founder Serge Laugier originally saw the shop as a high-end decoration outlet, it has become a benchmark for niche perfumery in Lyon. Located in the city centre art gallery district, the shop is fully committed to an artistic and independent vision of olfactory creation. Interview.
Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): “Whether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one”
Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand’s founder.
