Anise notes: aromatic intoxication
As evocative as they are divisive, anise notes encompass a variety of ingredients. An overview of their olfactory interpretations, as seen through the eyes of Caroline Dumur (IFF) and Ilias Ermenidis (Firmenich).
As evocative as they are divisive, anise notes encompass a variety of ingredients. An overview of their olfactory interpretations, as seen through the eyes of Caroline Dumur (IFF) and Ilias Ermenidis (Firmenich).
The last few years have seen an increasing number of creations inspired by marijuana.
An overview of the olfactory interpretations of the plant, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) and Nicolas Beaulieu (IFF).
Journalist Emmanuelle Dancourt suffers from congenital anosmia. But is also the source of inspiration for Umema, a fragrance composed by Mane perfumer Ugo Charron. They tell us how it came about, the result of a unique and synaesthetic experiment.
This year, the thirteen perfumers of the composition house worked around the theme “An American in Paris.” The theme was conducive to creative freedom and praise for the “captive” molecules, patented by the company.
In recent months, the perfume world has taken a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental.” After discussing the difficulties of olfactory classification in Part 1, let’s study the influence of 19th-century colonial aesthetics on the industry’s imagination.
For the past few months, the perfume world has been taking a stand on the use of the adjective “Oriental,” which is perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. Let's look at the olfactory issues behind this family of perfumes.
The loss of smell and national lockdowns were a blow to the perfume industry, but they also managed to initiate necessary rethinking in the sector. In order to respond to emerging societal challenges, Firmenich is laying the foundations for a new paradigm in perfumery.
A major world event for niche perfumery, the Milanese Esxence trade show was held under the shelter of the June sun, in a large hall transformed into a labyrinth of brands. Here’s an overview of the discoveries and upcoming launches.
The 10 finalists for Quintis’ Sandalwood Reimagined competition were recently unveiled, with the two winners to be announced at WPC in Miami in early July. Who were the five senior perfumers chosen, and what inspired them? Here are their profiles.
Founded in Warsaw in 2005, Galilu offers a rich selection of about fifty niche perfume and cosmetic brands. Its owner, Agnieszka Lukasik, answered Nez' questions.
Officially launched in Esxcence in 2015, the Turkish brand Nishane, born in Istanbul three years before, pays tribute to the roots, art and history of the city, half-way through West and Eastern traditions. Interview.
In 2011, Luca Maffei and his father founded the composition house Atelier Fragranze Milano (AFM). With French perfumer Antoine Lie acting as consultant, the company works exclusively with the niche sector. Interview.
After cofounding a design agency, Americans Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood came up in 2002
with the idea of creating Luckyscent, their own e-commerce site specialising in niche
fragrances. Interview.
After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014, powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. Interview.
In 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. It offers a selection of around sixty brands and a resolutely different approach to sales and customer experience. Interview with Liam Sardea, education manager.
Founded in 1975, Le Jardin retrouvé is one of niche perfumery’s pioneer brands, fruit of the avant-garde vision of its creator Yuri Gutsatz. Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz, who took over in 2016, bring a real passion to continuing the brand’s legacy.
Launched in Paris in 2014, Dusita is present in 60 countries around the world as a brand with a unique universe, rooted in the Thai culture of its founder. A collector of vintage fragrances turned self-taught perfumer, Pissara Umavijani pays tribute to her native country and her father’s poetry with a style nourished by European influences. Interview.
Cécile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company and works with a wide range of brands, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. Interview.
Although Le Paravent founder Serge Laugier originally saw the shop as a high-end decoration outlet, it has become a benchmark for niche perfumery in Lyon. Located in the city centre art gallery district, the shop is fully committed to an artistic and independent vision of olfactory creation. Interview.
Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand’s founder.