In an industry where olfactive differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major composition houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. For a few years ago, Eurofragance, a fragrance house located just outside Barcelona, decided to take the captives route to bolster the unique character of its creations, among other objectives. A voyage into the mysteries of the never-ending quest for fragrance innovation.
What is the history of incense and its trade? That’s the question answered in this article, which traces the history of the “Incense Route” over several centuries, from its earliest beginnings to the inscription of the Dhofar region in the Sultanate of Oman as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
Frankincense, bakhoor, attars: perfume is deeply rooted in Omani culture, starting with the Latin roots of the word, per fumum, meaning through smoke. The love of fragrances can be found throughout the Middle East, inextricably linked to how people see themselves and others, to their personal values, to the social rituals that unfold in daily life or at special occasions.
Monique Rémy was a pioneer and an iconoclast. She founded LMR in 1983, driven by her passion for the natural world. On the occasion of the company’s 40th anniversary, all those who crossed her path pay homage to her unique impact on the fragrance industry in the book Art of Natural. Here is its introduction.
Several scandals have hit the fragrance industry recently – while the word ethics is repeated over and over by the perfume brands. Maybe one of the keys lay in the fair remuneration of the first links in the chain? What seems obvious is yet far from being the rule. We offer an analysis of this burning issue, published in the last issue of Nez magazine.
The partnership between Amouage and Oman, which aims to relaunch the local incense industry, takes place in the historical and geopolitical context of the sultanate. The brand’s intention is to contribute to the social and economic development of the country, while promoting Omani culture.
Did you know that the brain and pancreas communicate via the olfactory system? This study from Hirac Gurden, member of the GDR O3, and its team, could open up prospects for the treatment of obesity and type 2 diabetes in humans.
We humans are not the only ones to have an olfactory culture: this sense is essential for many other living creatures! Let’s talk about animal noses with Gérard Brand, a member of the GDR O3.
Born in 1985 in Murcia (Spain), Iberchem is a leading company in the fragrance industry with a strong international presence. Dion Chandra, Fragrance Sales Manager for Indonesia, and Rae Ninta, Marketing Manager, talk about the main characteristics of Indonesia, where they opened an office more than twenty years ago.
Did you know that a better understanding of the origin of the rose’s fragrance would pave the way for innovations both in cosmetics and pharmacy? This is, among other things, what the CNRS research engineer and member of the GDR O3 Benoît Boachon explained to us.
Olfactory receptors are mysterious, but they are gradually unveiling their secrets to researchers. Biochemist Claire de March, a member of the GDR O3, and her colleagues were recently able to observe this secretive protein, in order to understand it better.
To wish you a happy holiday season, we offer you this interview of Louis Brochet, a champagne producer, initially published in Nez #10 – From the nose to the mouth
We can smell stress, but can we sniff out happiness? This was the question posed by Camille Ferdenzi, CNRS research associate and member of the GDR O3, and her team. Here are the results, digested by Nez.
Let’s take a geek’s journey to the heart of olfactory receptors, sources of unexpected hope, with Jérémie Topin, Assistant professor at Université Côte d’Azur, and Matej Hladis, PhD student, both members of GDR 03.
Our day-to-day lives are being increasingly infiltrated by what is given the catchall name of artificial intelligence. Perfumers are no exception. So how does AI change our relationship with the creative process? Drawing on an historical analysis of his profession, Jean-Claude Ellena offers a review of these new technologies, often championed by the perfumery industry.
Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. Let’s take a look at their botany and history, as well as the latest releases featuring them, with Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui and independent perfumer Anatole Lebreton.
Groupement de Recherche O3 (Odorant, Odeur, Olfaction) – otherwise known as GDR O3 – was created in 2015 with the aim of developing cross-disciplinary projects exploring odours in the broadest possible sense. To inaugurate the collaboration between GDR 03 and Nez, Nathalie Mandairon, director of neuroscience research for the CNRS (French National Centre for Scientific Research) and director of GDR O3, and Xavier Fernandez, chemistry professor at Côte d’Azur University and deputy director of GDR 03, talk to us about the past eight years in the life of the research group.
Although dsm-firmenich is best known for its expertise in synthetic molecules, the composition house has been present in Grasse since 2007. It has gradually put down roots in the town, culminating in 2020 with the acquisition of Villa Botanica, a nature-rich haven open to perfumers and clients the following year. It is now releasing a book that tells the story of this journey and reveals the four-season symphony at the heart of the world’s perfume capital.
Some perfumes disappear as quickly as they appeared. And yet there are the perfumes that count, the ones that forever mark the life and career of a perfumer. Today, Mandy Aftel talks about Joy by Jean Patou, the scent her mother used to wear. An olfactory shock that inspired her vocation.
Cercle creates experiences and organises festivals and concerts that shine the spotlight on cultural and natural heritage with a fusion of music, aesthetics and showcasing artists and venues. Ugo Charron, Mane perfumer created its olfactory signature: Golden Hour scent will be diffused on 10 July in Geneva for a concert in front of Saint Pierre Cathedral.
