Olfactory Culture

Secrets and lies in perfumery

“Abandon all hope of hearing the truth, ye who enter here”: words we might well be tempted to say to the novice taking an interest in perfumery. There is no denying that inventions, secrets and lies are legion in the fragrance universe.
From open secrets to copycat lies, lies of omission to workshop secrets, here is a brief overview of the deceptive discourse employed. Because, on the one hand, we have to laugh. And, on the other hand, the cult of mystery occasionally has its reasons, and it can be interesting to explore them.

Christmas’ smells

The fresh, resinous scent of the fir tree, a crackling fire and comforting spices… To shine during family dinners, we offer you a dissection of the olfactory atmosphere of Christmas, originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.

Perfumers: A team spirit

Although perfumers at IFF have long been accustomed to working together, the company went a step further by making the collaborative approach official in the early 21st century. An approach that has since been adopted by all the composition houses. Behind the scenes of a revolution.

From mouth to nose: when flavours become fragrances

Behind the evident familiarity of food notes lies a creative challenge for perfumers. Providing them with innovative ingredients so they can reach beyond a literal interpretation and come up with inventive signature compositions is one of Mane’s core missions.

Marcel Proust: Of chamber pots and vessels of perfume

In his saga, the asthmatic writer portrays a hypersensitive narrator whose nose is just as fine as his palate. On the occasion of the centenary of his death this November 18, 2022, we offer you an article originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #13, which returns to the role of odors in the work of the author.

Woody ambers: the nasal invaders

You smell them everywhere without knowing it, these mystery compounds. When, how and why did woody ambers invade perfumery? Here is our attempt at an answer for you: some facts, some history, and a healthy dose of subjectivity!

The press kit: The art of staging the immaterial

How do the different players contribute to the creation, publication and evolution of the press kit, a tool of the trade that conditions the discourse of journalists and, in turn, the image of perfumery?
To complete our series « Reinventing perfumery discourse », we offer you an article originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.

Olfactory dissonance, between discourse and reality

Endless fields of Grasse roses, eco-responsible patchouli and a few drops of the loveliest organic lavender: it appears that mainstream brands fill their bottles exclusively with extracts that are ever more sustainable, ethical and mindful. What if perfumery tried a different approach to talking about its creations?

Reinventing perfumery discourse

Myths, legends, misleading revelations, distorted reality: the perfumery industry has always tended to shroud itself in mystery, fostering a cult of secrecy and sometimes even disseminating lies. Has the time finally come to shift the dial?

Salty notes, sea spray and tastebuds

Often used to conjure up an ocean feel, salty notes are primarily rooted in the sense of taste. An overview of how salt is interpreted in perfumery, as seen through the eyes of Aliénor Massenet (Symrise) and Cécile Matton (Mane).

Vetiver, shadow and light

Although this tropical plant has long been a classic in perfumery, it recently seems to be attracting renewed interest. An overview of its botanical roots and olfactory developments, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d’empire) and Quentin Bisch (Givaudan).

Scents with superpowers

In this age of personal development and the pursuit of equilibrium, it’s no longer enough to simply smell good – you also have to feel good. On the occasion of the World Mental Health Day, we offer you an article originally published in Nez magazine about the influence of odors on our mood.

Cannabis, the transgressive green

The last few years have seen an increasing number of creations inspired by marijuana.
An overview of the olfactory interpretations of the plant, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Olivier Cresp (Firmenich) and Nicolas Beaulieu (IFF).

Maison Lautier 1795: The rebirth of a legend

Maison Lautier is currently being renewed by Symrise and is responsible for their full natural ingredients portfolio (Madagascar, Artisan and Supernature ranges). This invites us to re-examine its legacy and continued influence on perfumery.

Smells of the beach

Sun, sea and sky… To celebrate the summer, Nez offers you an article originally published in Nez, the olfactory magazine #09. As we scan the horizon, we discover that the coast is awash with nostalgic and addictive smells.

Esxence 2022: You can smell the niche from miles away

A major world event for niche perfumery, the Milanese Esxence trade show was held under the shelter of the June sun, in a large hall transformed into a labyrinth of brands. Here’s an overview of the discoveries and upcoming launches.

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