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Natural perfumes: everyone talks about them, but nobody really knows what they are made of. Nez offers you a special report that gives the floor to the perfumers who compose them, in order to get a real sense of their practices, their experiences and their opinions on the question.
We would like to share a few thoughts and ideas to conclude this special report on natural perfumery and say goodbye after two weeks spent together exploring the subject!
My perfume is 100% natural. Yes, but what does that mean? What exactly does it contain? Well, it depends!
After reading the perfumers’ opinions on the subject, let’s get down to business: here for your delectation is a selection (not exhaustive, of course) of brands and a few creations that have caught our attention.
American perfumer Mandy Aftel has been creating natural fragrances for 30 years and has founded her own brand, Aftelier Perfumes. This passionate pioneer tells us how she discovered natural fragrances, how she works, and what she thinks about the current natural craze.
A graduate of ISIPCA, Irène Farmachidi learned the perfume business alongside Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel, and then Charabot. In 2011, she moved to Technicoflor. She has recently created natural perfumes for the brand Ormaie.
When he first began working at Robertet in Grasse eight years ago, Serge De Oliveira quickly began to compose natural perfumes. Today he creates fragrances for 100Bon, Ormaie and Nolença as well as Ultra Doux shampoos.
Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal: “For us, 100% natural is a perfumer’s challenge rather than a marketing position”
The two perfumers and creators of the brand Voyages imaginaires, who stay true to an unfailingly bold and unpretentious creativity, an intentionally poetic feel, and a shared taste for natural ingredients.
Delphine Thierry: “To formulate 100% natural perfumes, I set aside almost everything I’ve learned so far”
Independent perfumer since 2007, Delphine Thierry has a real love for natural ingredients, and did not wait for them to be in vogue to become interested in this perfumery. She has collaborated with the brands Eve and Daphnée, Floratropia, and Richard Lüscher Britos.
When they work for several brands, perfumers have to deal with different accepted definitions of what is natural as well as various specifications. How do they cope? And how does the formulating process differ between natural and traditional perfumes? We asked Caroline Dumur, a perfumer at IFF.
The brand FiiLiT aims to popularize the intangible know-how of fine perfumery and the ecological awakening of our modern society, by educating its consumers through niche olfactory creations with clean and authentic formulations.
Givaudan is launching Blossom Lab™, the first mobile extraction and innovation laboratory for processing natural raw materials directly in the field. These new responsible naturals are taking Givaudan’s palette further along the eco-design path.