Certain iconic ingredients had to receive use restrictions – by IFRA Standards, government regulations or both – such as oakmoss. What problems do this ingredients poses? How has it been regulated? Matthias Vey, IFRA Vice President of Scientific Affairs, looks at the history of their IFRA Standards.
Since it was launched in 2016, BDK Parfums has built a close working relationship with the composition house Mane. The collaboration has resulted in nine creations so far.
In 1973, IFRA was founded in response to the need to harmonize practices and products in the fragrance industry to better regulate it, with a focus on human and environmental safety. An organization created by fragrance companies to ensure the safety of products for consumers and to defend the creativity of perfumers.
Several scandals have hit the fragrance industry recently – while the word ethics is repeated over and over by the perfume brands. Maybe one of the keys lay in the fair remuneration of the first links in the chain? What seems obvious is yet far from being the rule. We offer an analysis of this burning issue, published in the last issue of Nez magazine.
The partnership between Amouage and Oman, which aims to relaunch the local incense industry, takes place in the historical and geopolitical context of the sultanate. The brand’s intention is to contribute to the social and economic development of the country, while promoting Omani culture.
Did you know that the brain and pancreas communicate via the olfactory system? This study from Hirac Gurden, member of the GDR O3, and its team, could open up prospects for the treatment of obesity and type 2 diabetes in humans.
We humans are not the only ones to have an olfactory culture: this sense is essential for many other living creatures! Let’s talk about animal noses with Gérard Brand, a member of the GDR O3.
Did you know that a better understanding of the origin of the rose’s fragrance would pave the way for innovations both in cosmetics and pharmacy? This is, among other things, what the CNRS research engineer and member of the GDR O3 Benoît Boachon explained to us.
Olfactory receptors are mysterious, but they are gradually unveiling their secrets to researchers. Biochemist Claire de March, a member of the GDR O3, and her colleagues were recently able to observe this secretive protein, in order to understand it better.
We can smell stress, but can we sniff out happiness? This was the question posed by Camille Ferdenzi, CNRS research associate and member of the GDR O3, and her team. Here are the results, digested by Nez.
Let’s take a geek’s journey to the heart of olfactory receptors, sources of unexpected hope, with Jérémie Topin, Assistant professor at Université Côte d’Azur, and Matej Hladis, PhD student, both members of GDR 03.
Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. Let’s take a look at their botany and history, as well as the latest releases featuring them, with Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui and independent perfumer Anatole Lebreton.
Groupement de Recherche O3 (Odorant, Odeur, Olfaction) – otherwise known as GDR O3 – was created in 2015 with the aim of developing cross-disciplinary projects exploring odours in the broadest possible sense. To inaugurate the collaboration between GDR 03 and Nez, Nathalie Mandairon, director of neuroscience research for the CNRS (French National Centre for Scientific Research) and director of GDR O3, and Xavier Fernandez, chemistry professor at Côte d’Azur University and deputy director of GDR 03, talk to us about the past eight years in the life of the research group.
Although dsm-firmenich is best known for its expertise in synthetic molecules, the composition house has been present in Grasse since 2007. It has gradually put down roots in the town, culminating in 2020 with the acquisition of Villa Botanica, a nature-rich haven open to perfumers and clients the following year. It is now releasing a book that tells the story of this journey and reveals the four-season symphony at the heart of the world’s perfume capital.
Launched during the last edition of Exsence, the Milanese niche creation event, in April 2023, Niche by Nez is a free magazine aimed at showcasing the richness of the selective perfumery, published once a year, in both French and English. Daniel Nare, founder of Niche Parfumerie boutique in Romania with his wife Andreea Anca Nare, is among those who have chosen to distribute Niche by Nez. He shares with us his vision of olfactory culture.
In many ways, leather and perfumery have a similar history, always closely linked. Leather gloves have been perfumed since ancient times, although the profession of master glover-perfumer was not given formal status until much later. At the heart of the great perfumery classics, the leather accord is now making a strong comeback. Christine Nagel, in-house perfumer at Hermès, and Céline Perdriel, perfumer at Cosmo, take a closer look.
The mayor of Grasse, Jérôme Viaud, made an important announcement at the traditional cocktail party held at the International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) on 31st May: next year the show will take place in the world’s perfume capital after sixteen years in Paris. Thierry Duclos, who has been running the event for over twenty years, talks about its journey so far and the choice to hold it in Grasse.
Behind the evident familiarity of food notes lies a creative challenge for perfumers. Providing them with innovative ingredients so they can reach beyond a literal interpretation and come up with inventive signature compositions is one of Mane’s core missions.
You smell them everywhere without knowing it, these mystery compounds. When, how and why did woody ambers invade perfumery? Here is our attempt at an answer for you: some facts, some history, and a healthy dose of subjectivity!
How do the different players contribute to the creation, publication and evolution of the press kit, a tool of the trade that conditions the discourse of journalists and, in turn, the image of perfumery?
To complete our series « Reinventing perfumery discourse », we offer you an article originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.
