The many facets of natural perfumery: some useful definitions
My perfume is 100% natural. Yes, but what does that mean? What exactly does it contain? Well, it depends!
Anne-Sophie Hojlo
Posts
Mandy Aftel: “Mixing a bunch of natural ingredients in a bottle does not produce a perfume”
American perfumer Mandy Aftel has been creating natural fragrances for 30 years and has founded her own brand, Aftelier Perfumes. This passionate pioneer tells us how she discovered natural fragrances, how she works, and what she thinks about the current natural craze.
Irène Farmachidi : “In 100% natural perfumery, we formulate by using paraphrases, it’s like a game”
A graduate of ISIPCA, Irène Farmachidi learned the perfume business alongside Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel, and then Charabot. In 2011, she moved to Technicoflor. She has recently created natural perfumes for the brand Ormaie.
Serge de Oliveira : “Most clients want natural perfumes that are just like conventional fragrances”
When he first began working at Robertet in Grasse eight years ago, Serge De Oliveira quickly began to compose natural perfumes. Today he creates fragrances for 100Bon, Ormaie and Nolença as well as Ultra Doux shampoos.
Delphine Thierry: “To formulate 100% natural perfumes, I set aside almost everything I’ve learned so far”
Independent perfumer since 2007, Delphine Thierry has a real love for natural ingredients, and did not wait for them to be in vogue to become interested in this perfumery. She has collaborated with the brands Eve and Daphnée, Floratropia, and Richard Lüscher Britos.
Green Motion and the actual Impact of Perfumes on the Planet
To obtain an objective and quantified response on the raw materials have the most impact on our environmental resources, Mane has developed a test based on the principles of green chemistry.
How Mane reinvented enfleurage with its E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts
Mane is bringing together the historic technique of enfleurage and supercritical fluid extraction to introduce original notes to perfumers’ palette, with minimal impact on the environment.
Calice Becker: “The ultimate goal would be to see perfume design recognised as an intellectual work”
Calice Becker, President of the International Society of Perfumer-Creators, answered Nez’s questions.
Democratising olfactory culture – Saskia Wilson-Brown, Institute for Art and Olfaction
When you are a perfume lover, or simply curious to know more, how do you acquire olfactory culture? How can you satisfy your thirst for knowledge?
Reformulating a perfume – Alexandra Kosinski (CPL Aromas)
During a perfume’s life cycle, the formula may change. Alexandra Kosinski (CPL Aromas), explains how perfumers go about it.
How is independent perfumery doing? – François Hénin (Jovoy)
How do you launch an independent brand in a landscape that has reached saturation point? What mistakes should be avoided in order to stand out from the profusion of products? An overview by François Hénin, founder of Jovoy.
What is an olfactory department? – Karine Lebret (L’Oréal)
How does a major company develop a new perfume? Karine Lebert explains how L’Oréal has taken the innovative step of setting up an in-house olfactory department.
Mainstream perfumery at a composition house – Audrey Barbéra (Symrise)
Audrey Barbéra, Global Account Director with Symrise, shares her inside knowledge about developing a fragrance.
Perfume distribution in the United States – François Duquesne (Maison Duquesne)
How is the distribution network of the world’s largest market organised? How is it evolving? François Duquesne, founder of Maison Duquesne and a distributor in the United States, tells us all.
The role of the fragrance compounder – Bernard Maccini (Payan Bertrand)
The past 20 years or so have seen robots becoming increasingly involved in weighing out formulas alongside fragrance compounders. Answers from Bernard Maccini, Chief Perfumer and head of the fragrance production site for Payan Bertrand.
The production process of a perfume – Cristina Castellanos (Iberchem)
Cristina Castellanos tells us how the production process unfolds at this Spanish composition company specialising in fine and functional fragrances.
Artificial intelligence – Jean-Christophe Hérault (IFF)
Artificial intelligence programs are gradually becoming part of the perfume development process. Jean-Christophe Hérault, senior perfumer at IFF, explains the implications of what is sometimes referred to as a revolution.
From natural to synthetic – Jonathan Warr (Takasago)
An ever-growing number of innovations make it possible to obtain synthetic molecules from renewable resources. Explanations, with Jonathan Warr, Vice-President for Research & Development at Takasago.
Yes, we need synthetics – Xavier Fernandez (Nice University)
Why then are synthetic ingredients more useful and necessary than we think? And what exactly is green chemistry? Xavier Fernandez shares his insights.
Supercritical CO₂ extraction – Cyrille Santerre (ISIPCA)
After emerging in the 1960s and 1970s, supercritical CO2 extraction is now carving an ever-bigger place for itself in the perfumer’s palette.
