Anne-Sophie Hojlo
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Bagatelle international contest: discovering the roses of tomorrow
The Bagatelle international new roses contest has been highlighting and honouring outstandingly beautiful and fragrant roses since 1907. Nez was one of the judges for the 116th edition alongside, among other jury members, Jeanne Bichet, an evaluator at Luzi. Let’s plunge our noses into the petals of tomorrow’s roses.
Tuberose, by LMR Naturals
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place on May 31 and June 1 in Paris, we invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials. For the last leg of our journey, let’s embark for India, where LMR Naturals, IFF’s subsidiary for natural ingredients, has partnered with Nesso, a tuberose producer.
Vanilla, by Mane
On the occasion of the International Exhibition of Raw Materials
for Perfumery (SIMPPAR) which will take place in Paris, we
invite you to discover a series of articles originally published in the book From Plant to Essence – A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Materials.
Let’s find out more about the Malagasy vanilla bean grown by Floribis, with whom Mane has established a partnership since 2000.
Behind the scenes of the creative process: has the time come for perfume credits?
Who is really the author of a fragrance? While perfumers are increasingly in the limelight, the other contributors continue to remain anonymous. Why is this?
Christmas’ smells
The fresh, resinous scent of the fir tree, a crackling fire and comforting spices… To shine during family dinners, we offer you a dissection of the olfactory atmosphere of Christmas, originally published in Nez, the Olfactory Magazine #12.
Christophe Laudamiel: “50% of perfumery is plagiarism or remixes, it’s time to adopt a code of ethics”
The independent perfumer who worked with Procter & Gamble and IFF and now creates fragrances for The Zoo, Strangelove NYC, Richmess and BéLAir Lab Tokyo is calling for a revolution in a bid to build tomorrow’s perfumery, a more ethical and more creative perfumery where the perfumer’s role as author is recognised. We talked to him.
Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): “Now, the brands come to us”
Founded in Warsaw in 2005, Galilu offers a rich selection of about fifty niche perfume and cosmetic brands. Its owner, Agnieszka Lukasik, answered Nez’ questions.
Nez, la revue… de presse – #20 – Où l’on apprend que les archéologues se mettent au parfum, que les moustiques ont du nez et que Reims sent le biscuit et la betterave
Au menu de cette revue de presse, le rôle de l’olfaction dans l’art contemporain, les senteurs vues par les philosophes et le retour de l’enfleurage du muguet.
Franco Wright (Luckyscent): “Ultimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions”
After cofounding a design agency, Americans Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood came up in 2002
with the idea of creating Luckyscent, their own e-commerce site specialising in niche
fragrances. Interview.
Towards a more virtuous synthesis?
From biodegradable molecules and biotechnologies to renewable carbon, the perfume industry is developing new processes to create molecules with reduced environmental footprints to meet the challenges of sustainable development and growing consumer demand for naturalness. But has petrochemical synthesis said its last word?
Becoming a perfumer: an obstacle-strewn path
While the profession of perfumer is inextricably linked to the notion of competition, the long, arduous path that leads to it is equally competitive.
Where to train as a perfumer
From specialised schools and university courses to in-house schools at composition houses, there are several paths open to anyone who wants to make perfumery their profession.
Elaine O’Connell: “Our goal is to reconnect the global beauty industry with new ideas and fresh perspectives”
Le plus grand salon international consacré à la beauté au Moyen-Orient aura lieu à Dubaï . Quel est l’objectif de cette 25e édition ? Que réserve la programmation de l’événement, notamment en matière de parfum ? Les réponses d’Elaine O’Connell, directrice du salon.
Yves Cassar: “If vetiver were a character, it would be Indiana Jones”
Yves Cassar has been a perfumer for IFF since 1998. He has created many successes, alone or with a team. We asked him about vetiver.
Julie Massé: “Vanilla creates an incomparable sillage, a signature and volume”
Julie Massé is a perfumer at Mane since 2010. We asked her about vanilla.
Céline Barel: “Tuberose is too often caricatured”
Céline Barel has been a perfumer at IFF since 2001, creating Aesop’s Tacit, Zoologist’s Squid, Jo Malone’s Vanilla & Anise, and Maison d’Etto’s Canaan and Durban Jane.
Aurélien Guichard: “Biomuguet and Biocyclamol offer a form of abstraction that I really appreciate”
Aurélien Guichard, whose hometown is Grasse, joined Takasago in 2018, after roles as a perfumer with Givaudan and Firmenich. He is the nose behind Narciso for Narciso Rodriguez, Gucci Guilty, and Encens suave and Radical Rose for his own brand, Matière première.
Perfumers’ sources of inspiration
Mane does everything possible to continually feed the creativity of its Parisian perfumery team, from introducing new ingredients to encouraging collaboration with other disciplines.
The many facets of natural perfumery: some useful definitions
My perfume is 100% natural. Yes, but what does that mean? What exactly does it contain? Well, it depends!
