Atelier des Ors: A partnership made in heaven

In partnership with DSM-Firmenich

No one is a prophet in their own land. A saying that applies, at least partially, to the creative universe of Atelier des ors. While the fragrance house has many sources of inspiration, they all point to the desire to see perfume as “an aesthetic quest, an art of living.” The French brand is shaped by the “culture of elsewhere” dear to its founder, Jean-Philippe Clermont, as well as the decisive encoun- ters that have marked his path through life. Nothing in his former career in fashion then cigar distribution marked him out for the perfume world – other than an olfactory presence that accompanied him on every step of his journey: “I lived in Lebanon then Dubai, and I was always fascinated by the powerful sillages of the Middle East.” A dinner with a bottle designer first opened the door to perfumery. Then the idea of creating a brand came to him, like a castle emerging from the sand. A second meal with a fine fragrance director at DSM-Firmenich convinced him he needed to meet one of his dinner companion’s friends. “You absolutelyhave to meet Marie Salamagne,” he was told. “I’m sure she’s the right person for your project.” A meeting was arranged in Paris. “We talked about everything – travel, Dubai, children; we didn’t particularly mention perfumes, but I was captivated, we really connected,” says
the brand founder.

In 2015, composition houses tended to focus on major companies and were rarely interested in projects by alternative brands. This particular brand, however, piqued their curiosity: “His approach showed an appetite for the extraordi- nary: specks of gold in the bottle, a taste for opulent materials, an Art Deco aesthe- tic,” recalls Marie Salamagne, a perfumer at DSM-Firmenich. “We spoke the same language without having the same back- ground, and I was delighted to draw inspiration from unknown and exotic stories.” A decade and twenty fragrances later, the two of them are still workinghappily together. “I enjoy this sort of long-termcollaboration, which allows you to develop a degree of intimacy with the perfumer,” says Jean-Philippe Clermont. “When she presents a trial to me, she can read my face like a book! You could say that Marie is our house perfumer, since she’s been on board since the beginning.” When the brand founder works with her, what he looks for most of all are “elegant and beautiful notes which speak to the imagination: I see perfume as a means of expression, a powerful emotion.” When he is occasionally assailed by doubts, “Marie is always there to address them and reassure me.” For the “Blanche” collection, she was inspired by GustavKlimt’s Frise Beethoven, proposing a host of trials to explore the abstract theme of Ode to Joy. The range finally emerged three years later: “A long-standing partnership is what makes that possible.”

In addition to the advantages of this unique relationship, Jean Philippe Clermont also benefits from invaluable assistance in building his brand. This includes the development of ad hoc ingredients, as was the case with his “Frivolité” collection, conceived during the pandemic: “The lockdown period that deprived us of social ties made me want to launch a range inspired by a festive feeling.” Two olfactory innovations were custom-developed using the Nature Print technique, also known as “headspace.” They resulted in Pink Me Up, which captures the aroma of champagne, and Noir by Night, a homage to the scent of caviar: “a note that doesn’t play on the ingredient’s usual marine aspect, but on its creamy, buttery facets,” explains Jean-Philippe Clermont. The partnership, however, is not just about olfactory creation: “DSM-Firmenich also helps us with regulatory questions and communication, including by making Villa Botanica in Grasse available to host journalists and influencers.” Any plans for 2024? A new collection, and the acquisition of a property the brand is renovating at the heart of Grasse: Villa Primerose, a beautiful little place where the public will be welcomed. Proof that it is indeed possible to be a prophet in your own land!

Three questions to Marie Salamagne, DSM-Firmenich

How did you develop the signature olfactory style of Atelier des ors?
At first, the brand centered on iconic ingredients – vanilla, rose and iris – bound together by the concept of offering elegant, textured fragrances. Jean-Philippe gives me carte blanche when it comes to olfactory direction, and the creative process is pretty intuitive, a mix of his inspiring travels and my personal tastes. I’m always keen to hear his first impressions because he’s very spontaneous – his eyes sparkle when he likes a note! He also has a lot of respect for everything I propose; nothing is set in stone.

What form do his briefs take?
The themes vary from one collectionto the next. Jean-Philippe shareshis experiences and his taste for art with me. Sometimes the brief is very hands-on, like when he turned up for Bois Sikar with cigars and Lagavulin 16-year-old whisky. He knows I’m very visual so he brings along storyboards to illustrate a new adventure, a journey. For the “Frivolité” collection, he showed me images of women in a palace. I remember noticing the shininess of a tin of caviar and I wanted to replicate it with a maté, incense and coriander accord. At other times the brief is more abstract: For Nuda Veritas, I worked on finding something that could add a sort of light and purity. A note that wasn’t really in his usual style, but I told him: “Wear it, you’ll be seduced by its sillage.” And he’s always very happy to listen.

What aspect of this exclusive relationship do you value the most?
I feel very fortunate. Playing the role of “house creator” for Atelier des ors enables me to see the whole; it means I can build the brand’s olfactory identity. My interactions with Jean-Philippe enrich my research. I really enjoy our discussions: They’re very spontaneous but we also know how to take the time needed to accomplish what we set out to do.