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Felipe San Juan Tejada (R&D scientist) et Magdalena Rey

Eurofragance, active in captives

In an industry where olfactive differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major composition houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. For a few years ago, Eurofragance, a fragrance house located just outside Barcelona, decided to take the captives route to bolster the unique character of its creations, among other objectives. A voyage into the mysteries of the never-ending quest for fragrance innovation.

Felipe San Juan Tejada (R&D scientist) et Magdalena Rey

Eurofragance, active in captives

In an industry where olfactive differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major composition houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. For a few years ago, Eurofragance, a fragrance house located just outside Barcelona, decided to take the captives route to bolster the unique character of its creations, among other objectives. A voyage into the mysteries of the never-ending quest for fragrance innovation.

Oakmoss: an exemplary case of IFRA’s role

Certain iconic ingredients had to receive use restrictions – by IFRA Standards, government regulations or both – such as oakmoss. What problems do this ingredients poses? How has it been regulated? Matthias Vey, IFRA Vice President of Scientific Affairs, looks at the history of their IFRA Standards.

BDK Parfums: A family attachment

Since it was launched in 2016, BDK Parfums has built a close working relationship with the composition house Mane. The collaboration has resulted in nine creations so far.

Atelier des Ors: A partnership made in heaven

DSM-Firmenich and Atelier des ors have been collaborating closely since
2015, creating remarkable fragrances whose sources of inspiration include art, crafts and the French art of living.

Judith: a wonderfully vintage parisienne

Sarah-Lee Chlewicki, with 15 years of experience as an evaluator under her belt, decided to launch Judith in 2022, working hand in hand with the Symrise teams. The fresh new perfume brand paints a stylish portrait of today’s Parisienne – feminine, cool and elegant – as it revisits the olfactory aesthetic of the 1980s.

Eating Frankincense 

As well as lending itself to burning, drinking and eating, frankincense can be chewed. In Oman the amber tears shed by the aromatic resin take on every form, from intangible to concrete.

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Smell Talks: Martina Bianchini – IFRA Standards and niche perfumery

What framework can we offer niche brands to enable them to compose with the widest possible palette of ingredients, in complete safety and with respect for the environment? In this speech recorded in March 2024 in Milan at the 14th edition of Esxence, the meeting place for confidential perfumery professionals, International Fragrance Association (IFRA) President Martina Bianchini shares her vision of the industry. For her, “if perfumery is an art, science and standards must allow creators to express themselves as freely as possible”.

Wadi Dawkah, The Land of Frankincense

Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer at Amouage and Dominique Roques, perfumery ingredients sourcer, discuss the precious tree’s renaissance in Oman.

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