{"id":52069,"date":"2026-09-03T14:35:31","date_gmt":"2026-09-03T12:35:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=52069"},"modified":"2026-09-03T14:35:43","modified_gmt":"2026-09-03T12:35:43","slug":"frankincense-a-firm-perfume-favorite","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/wadi-dawkah-en\/frankincense-a-firm-perfume-favorite\/","title":{"rendered":"Frankincense, a firm perfume favorite"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_79e8ec8b96008ddc0539064d6c6d53d0\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\"><p>Frankincense is one of the world\u2019s oldest fragrances, straddling the mystical and the sacred. It was used to make kyphi, the olfactory preparation used in ancient Egypt to enter the divine realm, and was widely burned in ancient temples and places of prayer. Olibanum has also been present in Christian churches for many centuries and retains its important role in orthodox rites to this day.<\/p>\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_79e8ec8b96008ddc0539064d6c6d53d0 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Editorial partnership<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Modern-day perfumery approaches it with great caution and equally great delight. For the fact is that olibanum\u2019s rich diversity of olfactory facets makes it an inexhaustible source of inspiration for creators. Fresh yet balsamic, green yet resinous, dark yet light: Everything about frankincense is an oxymoron. The direction it takes hinges on the choice of its essential oil, fresh, peppery, terpenic and camphoraceous, or its resinoid, voluptuous, profound and persistent. Olibanum can thus deliver an earthy minerality to woody formulas while simultaneously introducing a natural and sophisticated freshness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Amouage has made frankincense one of its signature ingredients, along with rose and ambergris. The invigorating note plays many different roles: illuminating a forest with a ray of sunlight (<em>Boundless<\/em> by Karine Vinchon Spehner); accompanying mandarin in an ambery accord (<em>Opus XV King Blue<\/em> by Alexis Grugeon); and jostling with a Damask rose in the midst of a host of spices (<em>Epic Woman<\/em> by C\u00e9cile Zarokian). Frankincense is what provides texture and depth to <em>Guidance<\/em>: Quentin Bisch, its creator, first encountered it as a child at a Christmas market and considers the perfumery ingredient to be \u201cmagic\u201d and \u201cmysterious.\u201d To this day, a smoky waft of frankincense sends him into a meditative state filled with peace and inspiration. Pierre N\u00e9grin also finds himself projected back into childhood, in a church in his hometown of Grasse: \u201cOlibanum is a noble material. Frankincense trees inspire respect because you sense the suffering of a plant that grows in a desert region to which it had to adapt. It\u2019s said that the tree cries and we call the resin it produces frankincense tears.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The DSM-Firmenich perfumer has created no less than 13 fragrances for Amouage bearing the mark of his passion for frankincense in all its forms. \u201cIt\u2019s an ingredient that delivers a freshness that\u2019s more mysterious than lemon, which is functional, and ginger, which is a food.\u201d It can be teamed up with \u201ctransparent musks as well as a cedar or patchouli,\u201d explains Pierre N\u00e9grin. One example is his <em>Portrayal Man<\/em>, a very green fragrance centering on violet leaf, spices and woods. Pierre N\u00e9grin was chosen by the brand founded by the Omani royal family to oversee the quality of frankincense harvested in Wadi Dawkah, one of four UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Sultanate, whose first trial harvest of frankincense for perfumery began in September 2023. \u201cWhenever I smell an essence crafted from Omani resin, with its terpenic and slightly peppery notes of lemon, I have the sensation of plunging into a bottomless crater. This is a frankincense with a unique profile, and it can play every role in an olfactory composition,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"823\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-823x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-52067\" style=\"width:503px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-823x1024.jpg 823w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-241x300.jpg 241w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-768x956.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-1234x1536.jpg 1234w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2-1646x2048.jpg 1646w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V2.jpg 2009w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 823px) 100vw, 823px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The frankincense for <em>Journey Man<\/em> rubs shoulders with notes such as Sichuan pepper and cardamom: \u201cFrom an olfactory point of view, it combines freshness and voluptuousness.\u201d Olibanum makes a strong impression in <em>Interlude Man<\/em>, a fragrance designed to describe a profoundly chaotic world in transition. To boost the effect, Pierre N\u00e9grin enveloped it in powerful notes of oud, cistus and Ambrox, using the essence with its \u201cpine needle\u201d smell as well as the resinoid \u201ccloser to a labdanum or cistus absolute.\u201d C\u00e9cile Zarokian is another frankincense enthusiast. The independent perfumer is equally fond of olibanum essence, with its aromatic freshness, and the resinoid, with its \u201cwarm, smoky, resinous\u201d facets. \u201cThere are no limits on how it is used,\u201d she insists. \u201cFrankincense can be paired with woods as well as flowers.\u201d With rose and jasmine, naturally, \u201cand why not with a tuberose?\u201d she says, thinking out loud.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The perfumer is, however, well aware that the smell of frankincense can be divisive. That its character, so closely associated with the sacred, and all the memories of religious rites it sparks, can be off-putting. Her own first encounter with olibanum came in an Armenian Apostolic church in Marseille, the city where she grew up. \u201cI discovered frankincense in the swirls of smoke and a grandiose setting,\u201d she recalls. \u201cThe priests\u2019 vestments, the men singing, the swinging incense burner, the whole magnificent ritual of Armenian churches.\u201d When she next smelled frankincense as a perfumery student, it was a rediscovery. \u201cI had kept my childhood impressions, and it was a revelation. So that\u2019s what was being burnt in the church!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-683x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-52070\" style=\"aspect-ratio:0.6670055922724962;width:497px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-683x1024.jpg 683w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/Frankincense-V1-Light-1-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian also knows that the aldehydes in frankincense can bring to mind a functional, technical type of perfumery. She likes to use creamy, ambery notes to soften certain smoky or aldehydic facets. In <em>Epic 56<\/em>, a variation on <em>Epic Woman<\/em> (her first fragrance for Amouage, created in 2009 and one of the brand\u2019s bestsellers), she replaced Turkish rose essence with centifolia rose absolute and chose new spices like cinnamon, pink pepper, saffron and cumin: \u201cI had to rework the entire balance of the fragrance to really bring out the explosion of spices.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Every so often the perfumer likes to play with contrasts: In <em>Opus XIV Royal Tobacco<\/em>, her goal was to use smoke as a motif to link together the Sultanate of Oman and Cuba, two countries situated on the same parallel. The frankincense, combined with licorice, underpins the tobacco note, with its woody, spicy facets, nothing like traditional \u201cfruity, honeyed\u201d tobaccos. \u201cI wanted to trace the path of a burning cigar, starting with the fresh tobacco leaf,\u201d explains C\u00e9cile Zarokian. \u201cWith green notes for the opening followed by a spicy heart and smoky, resinous base.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For <em>Anchorage<\/em>, a fragrance designed specially to perfume the palaces of the Middle East and which captures the essence of Amouage, C\u00e9cile Zarokian opted for essence of hojari, the highest grade of frankincense. The result reflects the \u201cwarmth and generosity\u201d that characterize the Sultanate. The resin is \u201cfar more aromatic, zesty, even a little tangy, like a candy.\u201d The luxury ingredient is encircled by floral notes evoking the rose that grows on the Jebel Akhdar plateau, while sandalwood accords create a comforting yet sophisticated mood. The choice of the very best elements echoes the important role that frankincense plays in Omani culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Visuals : \u00a9 Amouage<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"The Art of creation, Human at scale\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/CYyZUK_PYa0?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Conception &amp; Partnership Director: Mathieu Ch\u00e9vara<br>Film Director: El\u00e9onore de Bonneval<br>Videographers: Ateeb Ali, Mulook Albalushi<br>Video Editor: Jean-Philippe Derail<br>Sound design: Perfecting Sound Forever<br>Title design: Vianney Bureau, Mika\u00ebl Charbonnier<br>Amouage: Renaud Salmon, Andras Komar, Johanna Ratti, Dominique Roques, Matthew Wright, Rayyan Alabdullatif, Maria Camino<br>Special thanks to Arielle Lauze.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Frankincense is one of the world\u2019s oldest fragrances, straddling the mystical and the sacred. It was used to make kyphi, the olfactory preparation used in ancient Egypt to enter the divine realm, and was widely burned in ancient temples and places of prayer.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":27,"featured_media":52068,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[7564],"tags":[5489,5490,924,4137,931,7571,5362],"series":[],"ppma_author":[3335],"class_list":["post-52069","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-wadi-dawkah-en","tag-amouage-en","tag-cecile-zarokian","tag-dsm-firmenich-en","tag-middle-east","tag-natural-raw-materials","tag-oman-en","tag-quentin-bisch-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Frankincense, a firm perfume favorite - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Frankincense is one of the world\u2019s oldest fragrances, straddling the mystical and the sacred. 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