{"id":51392,"date":"2026-05-26T11:57:37","date_gmt":"2026-05-26T09:57:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=51392"},"modified":"2026-05-26T12:01:55","modified_gmt":"2026-05-26T10:01:55","slug":"de-laire-bases-a-150-year-revolution","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/de-laire-bases-a-150-year-revolution\/","title":{"rendered":"De Laire bases: a 150-year revolution"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_fa7b6f42279d7c90b057304613357a6f\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\"><p>The Smell Talk at Palais Brongniart during Paris Perfume Week dedicated to the de Laire bases attracted a crowd of over 150 visitors, keen to listen to Symrise perfumers Ali\u00e9nor Massenet and Pascal Sillon recounting the bases\u2019 long history \u2013 and get the chance to smell some of them. While the de Laire name is unfamiliar to the general public, it has legendary status among perfume lovers. Fabriques de Laire was founded in 1876 and since then has contributed to a great many masterpieces of modern perfumery, from Guerlain&#8217;s L\u2019Heure bleue to Femme by Rochas, creating the bases found in their formulas. A legacy today\u2019s Symrise perfumers are continuing as they write a new chapter in the de Laire story.<\/p>\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_fa7b6f42279d7c90b057304613357a6f {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><em>This article was written in partnership with <\/em>Symrise<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>De Laire yesterday&#8230;&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fabriques de Laire\u2019s legendary status reflects the fact that it has trodden the same path as modern perfumery. Founded in 1876, the company witnessed a major revolution in the second half of the 19th century: the introduction of the first synthetic molecules into the perfumers\u2019 palette thanks to the rise of organic chemistry. Fabriques de Laire produced and sold a number of the emblematic ingredients marking a new era in perfumery as soon as they were created, including vanillin, coumarin, and isobutyl quinoline. While they now are part and parcel of perfumers\u2019 language, it was not always easy for fragrance creators at the time \u2013 accustomed as they were to working exclusively with naturals \u2013 to tame the new ingredients\u2019 unfamiliar odors and unprecedented potency.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Their struggles were what inspired Marie-Th\u00e9r\u00e8se de Laire, daughter of the founder\u2019s nephew, to come up with the brilliant idea of proposing the molecules not by themselves, but \u201cclothed\u201d in other ingredients to make them easier to incorporate in compositions. In 1891 she began devising a series of bases, harmonious mixtures of a few materials centering on a synthetic molecule which could then reveal its full potential. Sometimes described as pre-perfumes, the de Laire bases quickly built up a faithful customer base. They won over an impressive number of fragrance houses, contributing to the movement that saw synthetic ingredients increasingly used by creators and appreciated by consumers. They thus played a key role in the modern perfumery revolution and the expansion of creative possibilities it ushered in. \u201cAmbre 83 is a very good example of the de Laire bases\u2019 contribution to the history of perfumery.<em> <\/em>As a base created in the 1900s, it opened the door to wider use of vanillin, one of the very first synthetic molecules, and one of those manufactured by de Laire,\u201d explained Pascal Sillon during a conference at Paris Perfume Week. An iconic base for the company, Ambre 83 features in the formulas of a great many fragrances, including at Guerlain which gave it a central role in its ambery sillages.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"840\" height=\"630\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V3.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-51160\" style=\"width:718px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V3.jpg 840w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V3-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>&#8230;and today<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The de Laire company, owned by Symrise, and its famous bases continued to quietly find favor with a handful of loyal clients when, in 2010, perfumer Pascal Sillon was struck with the idea of shining a light on this jewel in the perfumery crown. After all, in addition to their fascinating hundred-year history, the de Laire bases have also had a profound impact on the collective unconscious, bringing a sometimes highly distinctive signature to many of the 20th century\u2019s iconic fragrances. Examples include <em>Habanita<\/em> from Molinard (Mousse de saxe), <em>L\u2019Heure bleue<\/em> and <em>Mitsouko <\/em>from Guerlain (Iris\u00e9ine), and <em>Bois des \u00eeles<\/em> from Chanel (Ambre 83). A fabulous legacy brought to the attention of the Symrise teams thanks to Pascal Sillon\u2019s work: he wrote his master\u2019s thesis on them, inspiring the company\u2019s perfumers to write the next chapters in the de Laire book with new creations that stay true to the de Laire&nbsp;bases\u2019 original mission: promote synthetic ingredients, make them easier to use by creators, and help expand the horizons of contemporary perfumery. With one difference: while the bases of the past were always commercially available, today\u2019s bases are captives, meaning that only Symrise perfumers get to use them.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) in Miami in 2016, Symrise launched a new collection of contemporary de Laire bases created by its team of perfumers. They included three bases that Pascal Sillon and Ali\u00e9nor Massenet revealed to the public at Paris Perfume Week in April 2026. Beginning with Ambre 84, a Pascal Sillon creation which echoes the modernity that distinguished Ambre 83 thanks to a molecule as important today as vanillin was last century: ethyl maltol with its hint of caramelized sugar, the cornerstone of modern-day gourmand fragrances. Ali\u00e9nor Massenet then presented two bases she composed herself. Rouge Groseille unfurls a mouth-watering fruity note built on a remarkably powerful captive, while Poivre Piqu\u00e9 suggests a cold, spicy structure perfect for constructing an elegant fragrance. \u201cThe new de Laire bases adhere to the same philosophy as the historical bases,\u201d says Ali\u00e9nor Massenet. \u201cEach one always contains a synthetic molecule, often a captive, and at least one natural exclusive to Maison Lautier 1795.<em> <\/em>That makes our bases twice as impossible to copy.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At a time when dupes are flooding the perfumery market,&nbsp; guaranteed uniqueness is one of the advantages de Laire bases automatically confer on every fragrance that uses them. Unsurprisingly, the Symrise teams also receive requests from a number of clients asking them to compose tailored bases. \u201cThese custom bases sometimes become an olfactory signature for an entire range,\u201d explains Pascal Sillon, who is delighted by the journey so far. \u201cToday, the de Laire bases form a living, dynamic collection perpetuating the history of a legendary name in perfumery.\u201d A name that may well soon become far more familiar.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"840\" height=\"630\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V2.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-51159\" style=\"width:752px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V2.jpg 840w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/DeLaire_V2-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 840px) 100vw, 840px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Smell Talk at Palais Brongniart during Paris Perfume Week dedicated to the de Laire bases attracted a crowd of over 150 visitors, keen to listen to Symrise perfumers Ali\u00e9nor Massenet and Pascal Sillon recounting the bases\u2019 long history \u2013 and get the chance to smell some of them.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3145,"featured_media":51161,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[2925,677,1416],"tags":[4315,4324,1087],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1126],"class_list":["post-51392","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-history-perfume-sense-of-smell","category-news","category-perfume","tag-bases-de-laire-en","tag-pascal-sillon-en","tag-symrise-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - 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