{"id":48819,"date":"2025-02-25T14:46:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-25T13:46:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=48819"},"modified":"2025-08-10T15:58:01","modified_gmt":"2025-08-10T13:58:01","slug":"fragrances-with-tastedsm-firmenichs-vision-of-the-future","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/news\/fragrances-with-tastedsm-firmenichs-vision-of-the-future\/","title":{"rendered":"Fragrances with taste: DSM-Firmenich\u2019s vision of the future"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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For the past twenty years, DSM-Firmenich has been unveiling its vision of perfumery trends to its clients. The Mind Nose + Matter1<\/a><\/sup>An exclusive platform available to clients in New York, Paris, Dubai, Shanghai, Geneva, and S\u00e3o Paulo at the end of 2024.<\/span> program explores major societal phenomena, giving free rein to perfumers in Paris and New York – offering a \u201cpreview\u201d of the future.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Article written in partnership with DSM-Firmenich<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This year, the theme of pleasure has taken center stage, oscillating between “attraction” and “avoidance.” The concept explores our relationship with well-being. \u201cAs American psychiatrist Anna Lembke explains in her book Dopamine Nation<\/em>, pleasure and pain are often closely linked,\u201d notes Justin Welch, Global Marketing Director for Perfumery. \u201cFor instance, eating spicy food brings both enjoyment and a burning sensation, just as the pleasure of running is proportional to the effort exerted. Today\u2019s society tends to avoid discomfort, yet if the body produces too much dopamine2<\/a><\/sup>A hormone associated with pleasure.<\/span> we become restless and struggle to manage our energy.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In response, DSM-Firmenich has designed an immersive experience called Momentum, structured around four life moments: Push, Lift, Release, Rest\u2014mirroring the four phases of abdominal breathing used for relaxation. This presentation also highlights ingredients from the Smell-The-Taste (STT) collection, an innovative palette designed to translate multisensory taste experiences into perfumes. \u201cSTT ingredients transpose flavors into fragrance, offering realistic interpretations of not only scents but also textures and sensations – salty, velvety, crispy\u2026\u201d explains Albane Furet, Perfumer and Flavorist responsible for STT creations at DSM-Firmenich.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The quest for realism<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe started by replicating nature\u2019s scents using the NaturePrint process, which acts like an ‘olfactory photograph,’ capturing the volatile odor compounds of an organic material (biomass, objects, or even ambient air). Back in the lab, the perfumer analyzes these components using GC-MS (Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry) and reconstructs the olfactory image with a blend of raw materials.\u201d The team initially focused on floral and woody notes, but soon perfumers sought more fruity elements in their palette. \u201cCapturing a fruit\u2019s scent can be very complex; some have more taste than smell,\u201d says Fabrice Pellegrin, Master Perfumer and Director of Innovation for Natural Products. Traditionally, fruity notes were evoked using molecules like gamma-undecalactone for peach or butyric bases for kiwi, but these lacked the sensation of actually biting into the fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Smell-the-Taste program, launched in the late 2000s, emerged from a collaboration between perfumers and flavorists. While flavorists work with salty or sweet bases that enhance taste, “perfumers work with a neutral base: alcohol,” explains Pellegrin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2019, DSM-Firmenich took a major step forward by hiring Albane Furet, a flavorist who brought her expertise in taste to the world of fragrance. After spending nine years in Belgium formulating flavors for beverages, Albane Furet noticed key differences between the two fields: \u201cI realized that perfumers before me used large amounts of ingredients like musks, whereas in flavors, these are rare – except for Exaltolide or Ambrettolide. The perfumer\u2019s palette also contains more natural ingredients, and the price range is significantly higher.\u201d She also noted a lack of “salty” notes in perfumery: \u201cIt felt like there was a gap compared to the culinary world\u2019s diversity.\u201d With STT ingredients, DSM-Firmenich has met this need, introducing notes like STT Soy Sauce, STT Black Olive, and STT Caviar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The creation process<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Once a project is identified, it begins with tasting – capturing sensations in the mouth and translating them into scent. Albane Furet carefully analyzes the sensory dimensions of the experience:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sight: The shape, colors, aesthetic appeal of the dish.
Touch: The product\u2019s texture, how it feels in the hand and mouth, its temperature.
Smell: The first aromas that entice us to take a bite or savor delicately.
Sound: The noise it makes while being eaten – crunchy, fizzy, etc.
Taste: The full spectrum of flavors, including the five basic tastes (sweet, salty, bitter, sour, umami), as well as somatosensory sensations – the coolness of mint, the warmth of alcohol, the spiciness of wasabi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then, Albane Furet switches to her perfumer role, crafting an accord that is first evaluated by Fabrice Pellegrin. Together, they compare the new fragrance to the original product: Is it figurative enough? Does it have a disruptive facet? Is it easy to use? Does it have a unique signature? Pellegrin explains: \u201cAn overly smooth accord wouldn\u2019t be interesting. For example, STT Soy Sauce is very realistic and may surprise people, but its salty roughness is what makes it unique – just as an animalic facet enhances the naturality of jasmine.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The development time for an STT ingredient varies: some are approved within a week, while others take years. \u201cFinding consensus can be incredibly complex, as with matcha,\u201d says Albane Furet. \u201cEach perfumer had a different interpretation – powdered cocoa, green tea, algae\u2026 We even held a tasting session with a tea expert to highlight the challenge: the ingredient\u2019s scent changes depending on its origin and whether it’s smelled as a powder or a beverage.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To validate the olfactory accuracy, the team sometimes uses the AFFIRM technique, which analyzes volatile compounds released during chewing. \u201cA nasal probe detects molecules perceived retronasally. We used it to study pomegranate, a fruit often requested by perfumers for its aesthetic appeal but with a subtle taste. The analysis revealed green and astringent markers in its seeds, essential for its olfactory translation.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once an STT ingredient is validated, it is tested in classic fragrance structures like cologne, foug\u00e8re, or floral compositions in Grasse. Then, in Paris, a scientific team assesses its emotional attributes – pleasure, creaminess, surprise. Once approved, STT ingredients are available to perfumers, who can use them as raw materials or tweak them further.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Trends and regional preferences<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Most requests for Smell-the-Taste come from the United States, a key market for gourmand and novelty fragrances. \u201cIt\u2019s a fast-paced industry where we constantly need to offer new accords,\u201d says Albane Furet. Some trends are fleeting, like the Negroni accord presented at Mind Nose + Matter. \u201cThe gel\u00e9e-like cocktail was a sensation in New York in 2024 – capturing these trends in fragrance before they fade is crucial,\u201d adds Justin Welch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Asia, DSM-Firmenich explores bold concepts like STT Wasabi or STT White Rabbit – a Chinese candy with milky caramelized notes. \u201cIt was a big hit among Chinese niche brands\u201d, recalls Furet. Another milky STT ingredient, Infant Milk, was developed for Mind Nose + Matter, evoking nourishment with a subtle vanilla touch – a departure from classic creamy, buttery milk notes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A diverse olfactory menu<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Today, the Smell-the-Taste catalog features around 60 references: 50% fruits (Pink Guava STT, Passionfruit STT, Tomato Juice STT…), 40% gourmand notes (biscuit, milky, caramel…) and 10% unique accords (alcohols, vegetables, salty or marine notes).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBest-sellers include Red Apple STT for its power and Whipped Cream STT, a light and airy vanilla,\u201d says Albane Furet. Some accords are already on the market, like STT Buckwheat Tea in Kenzo\u2019s Ikebana Sakura by Alexandra Monet et Alberto Morillas or STT Caviar in Mauboussin\u2019s Caviar Addiction created by Florian Gallo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For the future? Lighter gourmand scents, subtle sugars, and sweet-salty accords. A promising creation is Br\u00fbler<\/em>, a banana-caramel fragrance enhanced by STT Soy Sauce, developed by Amandine Clerc-Marie. And perhaps the next challenge: capturing the elusive umami!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For the past twenty years, DSM-Firmenich has been unveiling its vision of perfumery trends to its clients. The Mind Nose + MatterAn exclusive platform available to clients in New York, Paris, Dubai, Shanghai, Geneva, and S\u00e3o Paulo at the end of 2024. program explores major societal phenomena, giving free rein to perfumers in Paris and New York – offering a \u201cpreview\u201d of the future.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":39,"featured_media":47654,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[677,1418],"tags":[924,988],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1266],"class_list":["post-48819","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-science-en","tag-dsm-firmenich-en","tag-raw-materials","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFragrances with taste: DSM-Firmenich\u2019s vision of the future - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"For the past twenty years, DSM-Firmenich has been unveiling its vision of perfumery trends to its clients. 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