{"id":41486,"date":"2023-11-09T13:00:22","date_gmt":"2023-11-09T12:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=41486"},"modified":"2023-11-14T14:54:17","modified_gmt":"2023-11-14T13:54:17","slug":"nuts-and-cereals-the-new-tasty-treats","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/olfactory-culture\/nuts-and-cereals-the-new-tasty-treats\/","title":{"rendered":"Nuts and cereals: the new tasty treats"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_9daf8071f8fa3c7e3de81293b8f4c6e5\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\"><p>Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. The fact that the endless line of sugary blockbusters has reached saturation point certainly explains this growing trend. To talk to us about what\u2019s what, we caught up with Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui and independent perfumer Anatole Lebreton. <\/p>\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_9daf8071f8fa3c7e3de81293b8f4c6e5 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p>Thierry Mugler\u2019s <em>Angel <\/em>introduced sugar into perfumery: when it was released in 1992 it was seen as an outlier before establishing itself as a pioneering fragrance that opened the door to thirty years of creations. As its creator Olivier Cresp told us in a recent interview for <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-revue-olfactive\/nez\/nez-la-revue-olfactive-15-au-fil-du-temps\/\"><em>Nez #15 &#8211; As time goes by<\/em><\/a>, the industry is far from having exhausted the topic. He cites \u201call the cereals, oats, wheat, rice\u2026 sesame\u201d as some of the paths worth exploring.<em> <\/em>This new approach to gourmand notes is gradually carving out a place for itself in compositions: we are seeing various oil-producing plants and ears of cereals emerging here and there in formulas, exploring a territory far beyond the simple addition of ethyl maltol and its sales-boosting role in recent years.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>A quick botany lesson<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Cereals are grasses in the Poaceae family. Wheat (initially einkorn wheat), millet, maize and rice are some of the first plants cultivated by homo sapiens and played a decisive role in the development of human societies.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While humans have eaten these plants for many thousands of years, deliberate nut-growing no doubt happened later, probably due to their lower yields. Nuts are not a scientifically defined category but a set of oil-producing seeds contained in a shell from different botanical families. They are also characterised by low water content, usually less than 50% of their total weight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts and chestnuts belong to the Fagales order. The walnut, which boasts the largest worldwide production, is the fruit of <em>Juglans regia<\/em> in the Juglandaceae family. We have little information about its origins, but we do know it has been around for a very long time: a fruit dating back eight million years was found during an archaeological dig in Ard\u00e8che, in southeastern France. As for the cashew, it comes from <em>Anacardium occidentale<\/em> in the tropical Americas. It was not identified until the 16th century, although it may have been used at an earlier date. <em>Castanea sativa Mill<\/em>., from the Fagaceae family, is thought to have been cultivated for chestnuts starting in the 5th century BCE, often replacing cereals over the course of history (it was even known as \u201cbread of the woods\u201d). Fruit of <em>Prunus dulcis<\/em> from the to the Rosaceae family, the almond is likely to have been eaten as early as the Mesolithic and is prized by communities living round the Mediterranean region. The pistachio is from the <em>Pistacia vera<\/em>&nbsp;<em>L<\/em>., in the Anacardiaceae family from central Asia. And the hazelnut is the fruit of the <em>Corylus avellana<\/em>, in the Betulaceae family<em>.<\/em> It is also worth mentioning the coconut \u2013 fruit of the <em>Cocos nucifera<\/em> which belongs to the Arecaceae family \u2013 for its name as well as its olfactory similarities, even though it is not traditionally included in the nut category.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>A variety of olfactory profiles<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Nuts and cereals have olfactory profiles as varied as they are appreciated. Initialy, a large number of volatile compounds (around 200) were identified \u2013 compounds that can evolve depending on growing conditions, such as water stress, diseases and maturity.<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_41486_1('footnote_plugin_reference_41486_1_1');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_41486_1('footnote_plugin_reference_41486_1_1');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_41486_1_1\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[1]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_41486_1_1\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">See Vald\u00e9s Garc\u00eda A, S\u00e1nchez Romero R, Juan Polo A, Prats Moya S, Maestre P\u00e9rez SE, Beltr\u00e1n Sanahuja A., Volatile Profile of Nuts, Key Odorants and Analytical Methods for Quantification. Foods,&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_41486_1('footnote_plugin_reference_41486_1_1');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_41486_1_1').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_41486_1_1', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> Post-harvest treatment also effects the olfactory nature of these raw materials. With the Maillard reaction and oxidisation of fatty acids that happens during cooking, lipids are damaged and olfactory molecules appear, such as furanone, methylbutanal and benzene acetaldehyde with its honeyed aroma. A number of pyrazines \u2013 a family of molecules with the same roasted signature \u2013 also develop with aldehydes, alcohols and ketones. Then the odours change over time: the concentration of linoleic acid gradually increases while hexanal and nonanal also appear, and are partly responsible for a \u201crancid\u201d smell.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Perfumers draw on a variety of traditional ingredients to play with all these sensations. Vetiver from Haiti, for instance, can have hints of hazelnut. Another example is \u201ctonka bean and its coumarin, present in almonds \u2013 also suggested by benzaldehyde, acetophenone and heliotropin<em>. <\/em>Immortelle<em> <\/em>and fenugreek have cereal-like facets too, with a bit of spice.<em> <\/em>Sandalwood, with its milky and woody aspects, can conjure up the idea of pastry, tobacco can add a gourmand dimension on top of its hay notes, while furaneol and the pyrazines provide the roasted facet.<em> <\/em>I\u2019m particularly fond of wheat bran for the absolute \u2013 it has a rich olfactory profile ranging from straw to praline, with more jam-like, honeyed qualities,\u201d explains Anatole Lebreton.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To embody hazelnut, \u201cwe often use pyrazines, which immediately evoke a roasted feel,\u201d notes Mathilde Bijaoui<em>.<\/em> \u201cBut if we want to play on the greener, fruity dimension, we have a neo-Jungle hazelnut essence at Mane which helps introduce that sense of naturalness.<em> <\/em>On the other hand, certain molecules \u2013 like diacetyl and acetyl propionyl \u2013 which were used in the past to build up a buttery facet, are now strictly regulated. You have to be clever about it: to introduce more softness, you could use the neo-Jungle prune essence, for example.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>To recreate the smell of pistachio, Jean-Claude Ellena suggests three ingredients in the summary of odours in the <em>Journal d\u2019un parfumeur<\/em>: \u201cbenzoic aldehyde, phenylacetaldehyde, vanillin.\u201d The walnut is aromatic and earthy, while the almond has more of green, milky character. The chestnut, with its subtle sugary taste, also has \u201ca spicy side to it, isoeugenol [a molecule contained in the smell of cloves]\u201d&nbsp;whereas \u201crye is smokier,\u201d adds Mathilde Bijaoui. The perfumer\u2019s favourite cereals include, in particular, \u201coat, for its very fluffy, powdery smell, with a maternal, creamy and comforting, nourishing feel.<em>&nbsp;<\/em>To add a floury touch, we combine several raw materials, including woody ingredients such as cedar and sandalwood.<em> <\/em>And we recently created a captive, Vayanol, which is spicy with hints of liqueur, vanilla and tobacco, and can offer an interesting solution for cereal facets.\u201d The captive is now part of the Mane perfumers\u2019 palette, along with Cocotone, another product of biotechnologies, appreciated for its toasted coconut aspect. It is also worth mentioning the Garden Lab asparagus from Symrise, with its cereal and hazelnut facets. The emergence of these new materials supplements traditional ingredients as well as responding to the current interest in gourmand notes.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Scented tradition<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Aside from these distinctions, it is noticeable that while some of the notes are populating our bottles, others are far more discreet. Our noses are very familiar with coumarin, present in tobacco notes and certain florals. While it tends to be found more frequently in functional fragrances, coconut has made a home for itself in summery white florals and exotic fruity accords. But walnuts, hazelnuts, pistachios and cereals do not have a long creative tradition behind them in the gustatory sense.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>M\u00e9chant loup<\/em>, composed by Bertrand Duchaufour for L\u2019Artisan parfumeur in 1997, may well be the fragrance that got the ball rolling. As the brand describes it, the perfume paints \u201can abstract portrait of the hazelnut tree in an accord that reveals the smells of the forest and softens into a gourmet note.\u201d Then there is <em>Bois farine<\/em>, an unquestionably more famous fragrance released in 2003. Jean-Claude Ellena\u2019s creation offers an interpretation of the Ruizia Cordata flowers to be found in R\u00e9union, with their floury aroma recreated by a bouquet of cedar, guaiacwood and sandalwood in a powdery whisper. A year later the perfumer came up with <em>V\u00e9tiver tonka<\/em> for Herm\u00e8s, where the hazelnut facet of the plant\u2019s root is softened by tonka bean, evoking a chocolatey muesli. Olivier Cresp was the next to venture into this territory with <em>KenzoKi&nbsp;Rice Steam<\/em>; released in 2004 and reissued in 2010 under the name <em>MMM de riz sensuel <\/em>before being discontinued again, it suggested grains of steamed basmati rice in a musky aldehyde and pyrazine cloud. That same year saw the release of <em>Marron chic<\/em> from Nez \u00e0 Nez, where Karine Chevallier fuses a creamy iris with cocoa and balsam facets, creating the illusion of a marron glac\u00e9. Chestnut also features in <em>Fat Electrician<\/em> from \u00c9tat libre d\u2019Orange: an oily vetiver composed in 2009 by Antoine Maisondieu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The signature fragrance of Brittany-based brand Lostmarc&#8217;h\u2019, <em>Lann-Ael<\/em>, pays homage to the traditional Breton cake kouign-amann, even though sugar does not take a central role and green notes rub shoulders with milk and cereals. Delving into the pasty cook\u2019s oven, Christopher Sheldrake offers an evocation of French toast enveloped in dried fruits, milky, malted, slightly smoky and candied, which goes by the name <em>Jeux de peau<\/em> from Lutens. In 2012, \u00c9tat libre d\u2019Orange, clearly a pioneer when it comes to the new gourmands, launched <em>Fils de dieu, du riz et des agrumes<\/em> (Ralf Schwieger), followed in 2013 by <em>La Fin du monde<\/em>, a gunpowder accord composed by Quentin Bisch, full of crackling popcorn.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jo Malone took things one step further with a collection of five perfumes launched in 2018 that explore \u201cEnglish fields,\u201d as interpreted by Mathilde Bijaoui: \u201cit really was innovative at the time. The idea was to dedicate each perfume to a specific cereal, in a very literal style.<em> <\/em>It was a particularly enjoyable exercise for me, as I love transposing things we eat \u2013 without necessarily focusing on sugary elements, but evoking something mouth-watering, nourishing \u2013 the incarnation of the concept of the \u2018seed of life.\u2019<em> <\/em>These notes harmonise really well with the skin.<em> <\/em>To differentiate the cereals, we went to smell them at a baker\u2019s.<em> <\/em>So <em>Oat &amp; Cornflower<\/em> explores muesli with a dried fruit, hazelnut dimension, slightly roasted, shaped by lavender and woody notes.<em> <\/em>For <em>Primrose &amp; Rye<\/em>, on the other hand, I worked with rye, which is darker, almost smoky.\u201d<em> <\/em>The range was released as a limited edition and also includes<em> Green Wheat &amp; Meadowsweet<\/em>, a honeyed almond with <em>Honey &amp; Crocus<\/em>, and the floral and powdery <em>Poppy &amp; Barley<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>Fresh out the oven<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The explosion of cereal and toasted notes is very recent. Pistachio for example has been popping up in several compositions launched in recent months. Its green character echoes the pesto accord in <em>Rital Date<\/em> from Versatile while adding a gourmand, comforting creamy roundness, described as \u201cvery appetising, invigorating, warm, addictive\u201d by the brand, which handed over the reins to perfume creation studio Flair.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"891\" height=\"761\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/Rital-Date-Versatile.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41588\" style=\"width:370px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/Rital-Date-Versatile.jpg 891w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/Rital-Date-Versatile-300x256.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/Rital-Date-Versatile-768x656.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 891px) 100vw, 891px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>And pistachio is the star of the composition for <em>Yum Pistachio Gelato 33<\/em> from Kayali, the brand founded by sisters Huda and Mona Kattan who also created the Huda Beauty brand. A tasty little treat, unpretentious, but living up to the promise of its name by creating an ice-cream with green flashes, almondy and creamy.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Kayali-Pistachio.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41412\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Kayali-Pistachio.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Kayali-Pistachio-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Kayali-Pistachio-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>DS &amp; Durga is where a true ode to the pistachio can be found: <em>Pistachio<\/em> is \u201ca perfume with no history, which simply evokes the fun side of the nut \u2013 particularly its flavour in deserts.\u201d The result, however, has a somewhat synthetic feel among the vanilla-like notes.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Pistachio-DS-Durga.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41416\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Pistachio-DS-Durga.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Pistachio-DS-Durga-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Pistachio-DS-Durga-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The green nugget also lends its name to the latest offering from Obvious, which crowns it queen of Tripoli\u2019s streets. It opens with a green, almondy surge, driven by musks and the milky facets of sandalwood, avoiding any sense of heaviness. <em>Une Pistache<\/em> offers an excellent interpretation of its subject in a far more naturalistic tone than its eponymous New York cousin.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Obvious-Pistache.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41418\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Obvious-Pistache.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Obvious-Pistache-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Obvious-Pistache-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>A roasted version crops up in <em>Faces of Francis<\/em> from Vilhelm, inspired by Francis Bacon\u2019s triptychs. Bertrand Duchaufour imagines the artist in his studio recalling \u201cthe smells of Tangier where pistachio mingles with saffron.\u201d It teams up with aldehydes, woods, pyrogenic styrax, vetiver and ambergris.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Faces-of-Francis-Vilhelm.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41472\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Faces-of-Francis-Vilhelm.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Faces-of-Francis-Vilhelm-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Faces-of-Francis-Vilhelm-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Christine Nagel\u2019s latest creation for the Jardins d&#8217;Herm\u00e8s collection looks not to Morrocco for inspiration but to Greece \u2013 more specifically to the island of Cythera. The new member of the family stands out from the other compositions in the range, neither floral nor really citrusy: instead it is as blond as wheat. Pistachio is a gourmand presence amidst the grasses swaying in a landscape of generous roundness.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cythere-Hermes.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41422\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cythere-Hermes.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cythere-Hermes-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cythere-Hermes-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Golden wheat ears envelop the latest creation by Anatole Lebreton, <em>Brioche<\/em>. The independent perfumer describes how the idea came to him when he discovered wheat bran absolute. \u201cThat\u2019s often how I work, by falling in love with a raw material.<em> <\/em>This one has straw facets, praline-like, candied, honeyed, which remind me of Weetabix.<em> <\/em>It made me want to work on a brioche, even though sugary notes are not part of my culinary or olfactory universe.<em> <\/em>I drew out the dried fruit dimension with furaneol \u2013 which is very strong \u2013 to add a little bit of a roasted and strawberry jam feel.<em> <\/em>Coumarin also conjures up praline-scented toast.<em> <\/em>Sandalwood, which is slightly milky, brings to mind rising dough.<em> <\/em>As if you\u2019d opened the oven during cooking, with a piece of raw dough still on the table in a dusty house strewn with dry straw.\u201d A panoramic perfume which meets the challenge of faithfully recreating the sweetness of pastries while avoiding their stickiness, all with a hint of fresh country air.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"728\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Brioche-Anatole-Lebreton.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41424\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Brioche-Anatole-Lebreton.jpg 728w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Brioche-Anatole-Lebreton-300x247.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 728px) 100vw, 728px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Pastries of every sort are traditionally to be found in candles and home fragrances. But creations are often heavy, fairly coarse and ultimately unmemorable. The <em>Cardamome brioch\u00e9e <\/em>candle designed for the autumn by the small brand R\u00e9coltes stands out for its elegance. The Guatemalan spice brings with it an aromatic freshness that shapes the rounder notes of a caramelised, almost toasted vanilla.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cardamome-briochee-Recoltes.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41426\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cardamome-briochee-Recoltes.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cardamome-briochee-Recoltes-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Cardamome-briochee-Recoltes-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>But let\u2019s get back to our eaux de parfum, where Mathilde Bijaoui has also explored an emblematic bakery speciality. For <em>Crumb Couture<\/em>, from New York brand Snif, \u201cthe approach was fairly literal: a croissant spread with a layer of red fruit jam.<em> <\/em>Various ingredients suggested themselves, and I chose sandalwood, vanilla and tonka bean.<em> <\/em>And then there\u2019s the fact that when you work at a composition house, you get to talk to the flavourists, excellent sources for briefs of this sort!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Crumb-couture-Snif.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41428\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Crumb-couture-Snif.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Crumb-couture-Snif-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Crumb-couture-Snif-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Grasses have come along for the ride too. They take us to Turkey and the town of Harran, which lends its name to one of the compositions from recently launched niche brand Soul of Makeen. Patrice Revillard invites us to \u201cbreak bread together at dawn in welcoming households\u201d by working on the ambery notes with a nostalgic approach and enveloping them in \u201can accord made of cereals, candied fruit and honey.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Soul-of-Mankeen-Harran.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41432\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Soul-of-Mankeen-Harran.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Soul-of-Mankeen-Harran-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Soul-of-Mankeen-Harran-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>At Profumo di Firenze, flowers conjure bread fresh from the oven. Violet, tulip, iris and vanilla combine in <em>Fior di Pane<\/em> to take us \u201cback in time, waking childhood memories.\u201d Like an echo of a poem by Francis Ponge, which we feel deserves quoting for the sheer pleasure: \u201cThat cold soggy substratum, the doughy innards, consists of a sponge-like tissue; there flowers, leaves are fused together at every bend like Siamese twins.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/fior-di-pane-Profumo-di-Firenze.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41434\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/fior-di-pane-Profumo-di-Firenze.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/fior-di-pane-Profumo-di-Firenze-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/fior-di-pane-Profumo-di-Firenze-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Let us take a stroll through the meadows with Zoologist, which invites us to embrace our inner mouse with <em>Harvest mouse<\/em> and run through wheat fields infused with camomile, hay, beer CO<sub>2<\/sub> extract and balsams. The result is vanilla, caramelized, regressive. <em>Tiger<\/em> is more characterful, with notes of chestnut behind its woods and leather.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvest-Mouse-Zoologist.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41436\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvest-Mouse-Zoologist.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvest-Mouse-Zoologist-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Harvest-Mouse-Zoologist-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Meabh McCurtin composed <em>Bread in Chestnut<\/em> for Scents of Wood (L\u2019\u00c2me du bois) with her nose buried in yet more cereals. The wheat bran absolute chosen for its toasted notes is softened by the creaminess of sandalwood and deliciousness of tonka bean for \u201ca decadent and comforting effect based on balsam-like bread.\u201d Rosemary and oliban counterbalance this sweet treat, which summons the smell of a candied chestnut in its alcohol-infused glazing.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bread_in_Chesnut.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41438\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bread_in_Chesnut.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bread_in_Chesnut-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bread_in_Chesnut-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The precious fruit embraces haute couture at Dries van Noten: Marie Salamagne, \u201cfell in love with the silk dresses on Quai Malaquais\u201d and was inspired by the fabric for one of the compositions in the collection released by the brand in 2022. The result? A sensual, vanilla-infused chestnut scattered with green notes and given the name <em>Soie Malaquais.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Dries-SoieMalaquais-.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41440\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Dries-SoieMalaquais-.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Dries-SoieMalaquais--300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Dries-SoieMalaquais--150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Cereals are not just for adults: the new Tartine et Chocolat fragrance is sprinkled with their sweetness. C\u00e9line Perdriel chose orange blossom, white cocoa and oat milk to embody a new version of the famous <em>Ptisenbon<\/em> of our childhood: <em>Ptimusc, <\/em>a fragrance we won\u2019t want to leave to our children.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Tartine-et-chocolat-Ptimusc-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41487\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Tartine-et-chocolat-Ptimusc-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Tartine-et-chocolat-Ptimusc-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Tartine-et-chocolat-Ptimusc-1-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Musks are also centre stage in <em>L\u2019Eau papier<\/em> from Diptyque, where Fabrice Pellegrin depicts \u201ca suspended moment when hand, ink and canvas move as one.\u201d The foundation is the white medium where inspiration, sketches and ideas are deposited \u2013 and where mimosa wreathed in a \u201crice steam\u201d accord is soon followed by woody ambers (or an \u201caccord of blond woods\u201d in the brand\u2019s words).<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Leau-papier-Diptyque.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41444\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Leau-papier-Diptyque.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Leau-papier-Diptyque-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Leau-papier-Diptyque-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Woody ambers play a big part in <em>Frustration <\/em>from \u00c9tat libre d\u2019Orange, created by Mathilde Bijaoui. A vanilla that is alternately tangy, spiced with cinnamon, and creamy, evoking a nostalgic chestnut pur\u00e9e \u2013 possibly a nod to the gourmand vetiver that is <em>Fat Electrician<\/em>. \u201cAn extraordinary State of Orange that you have to reach in order to live passionately between the child and the adult with the memory of what\u2019s missing.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Frustration-ELO.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41446\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Frustration-ELO.webp 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Frustration-ELO-300x300.webp 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Frustration-ELO-150x150.webp 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>But hazelnut has recently proved to be vetiver\u2019s favoured partner. In 2020, mirroring one of the house\u2019s historic fragrances \u2013 <em>N\u2019Aimez que moi<\/em> \u2013 Caron launched <em>Aimez-moi comme je suis<\/em>, a Haitian vetiver mixed with nuts and tonka beans with \u201cwoody amber accents.\u201d We have been warned.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Aimez-moi-Caron.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41448\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Aimez-moi-Caron.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Aimez-moi-Caron-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Aimez-moi-Caron-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Vetiver and hazelnut feature again more in the new fragrance from Essential parfums, <em>Patchouli Mania by Fabrice Pellegrin<\/em>. But as its name indicates, the star of the show is the Indian leaf, teaming up with an absolute of cacoa, davana and woody notes. The perfumer says he wanted to \u201ccreate a sensual, ungendered patchouli, addictive as well as entrancing.\u201d<em>\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Patchouli-Mania-Essential-Parfums.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41450\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Patchouli-Mania-Essential-Parfums.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Patchouli-Mania-Essential-Parfums-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Patchouli-Mania-Essential-Parfums-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>At L&#8217;Occitane, the exploration of forgotten flowers has given rise to <em>M\u00e9lilot<\/em>, the result of collaboration between researchers, producers and perfumers. In addition to the resurrected flower, other notes include galbanum leaf, hazelnut pear, hay, wheat, vetiver and cedarwood. A simple, comforting gourmet pleasure, with honeyed facets and a clear recognition of nuts, without heaviness.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Melilot-LOccitane.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41452\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Melilot-LOccitane.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Melilot-LOccitane-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Melilot-LOccitane-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Perfumer Jean-Christophe H\u00e9rault also chose the hazelnut accord to soften the vetiver and iris in <em>V\u00e9tiver gris<\/em>, the Jacques Fath perfume house\u2019s second homage to its mythical <em>Iris gris<\/em> after an eau de parfum released at the beginning of the year. Its short and legible formula gives it an elegant, modern feel.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Vetiver-Gris_Jacques-Fath850.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41454\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Vetiver-Gris_Jacques-Fath850.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Vetiver-Gris_Jacques-Fath850-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Vetiver-Gris_Jacques-Fath850-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>The hazelnut and iris duo has lent its name to one of Luca Maffei\u2019s creations for Jul et Mad as part of Les Essentiels&nbsp;collections. \u201cAn oriental-floral-gourmand&nbsp;accord,\u201d with rose-scented, spicy and vanilla-infused notes termed an \u201colfactory delight\u201d by the brand.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Noisette-Iris-Jul-Mad-.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41458\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Noisette-Iris-Jul-Mad-.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Noisette-Iris-Jul-Mad--300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Noisette-Iris-Jul-Mad--150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Marie Jeanne chose the same nut to magnify her <em>Iris Pallida. <\/em>Alexis Dadier pays tribute to the noble root, known as the gold of perfumery, by paring back its powdery facets and ramping up the more buttery dimension which evokes the raw material \u2013 as well as the deliciousness of a hazelnut cream.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1000\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Iris-Pallida-Marie-Jeanne.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41456\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Iris-Pallida-Marie-Jeanne.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Iris-Pallida-Marie-Jeanne-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Iris-Pallida-Marie-Jeanne-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Iris-Pallida-Marie-Jeanne-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Hazelnut takes on a popcorn feel in the <em>genmaicha <\/em>Patrice Revillard has bottled for <em>Je ne sais quoi<\/em>. One of the first creations in the Expressions parfum\u00e9es&nbsp;collection from Teo Cabanel, he infuses a Japanese sencha with \u201croasted grains of rice with sesame-hazelnut&nbsp;notes.\u201d A lovely appetising fragrance with the added benefit of being accessible in both olfactory and financial terms.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"813\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Je-ne-sais-quoi-813x1024.webp\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41460\" style=\"aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Je-ne-sais-quoi-813x1024.webp 813w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Je-ne-sais-quoi-238x300.webp 238w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Je-ne-sais-quoi-768x968.webp 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Je-ne-sais-quoi.webp 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 813px) 100vw, 813px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Rice has an airier quality in <em>Dirty Rice<\/em>, one of the offerings from a new brand with a rebel attitude, Born To Stand Out. The basmati garnished with almonds and light woods bears the unmistakable stamp of Olivier Cresp. For anyone already wild about <em>Kenzoki<\/em>, here they will encounter a musky lover, endowed with a hint of discreet animality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><br><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-1024x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41462\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Bordtostandout-Dirty-rice.jpg 1999w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>We encounter almond milk once more in <em>Guidance<\/em>, a dream-like creation by Quentin Bisch who invites us to enter an ivory tower inhabited by a princess. Osmanthus, jasmine and sandalwood complete this \u201cfresh and spellbinding interpretation of Amouage\u2019s distinctive rose-incense-ambergris trio.\u201d<em>&nbsp;<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Amouage-Guidance.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41464\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Amouage-Guidance.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Amouage-Guidance-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Amouage-Guidance-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>Frapin finds its inspiration not in a fairytale but Alexandre Dumas\u2019s iconic novel, <em>The Count of Monte Cristo<\/em>. <em>Attendre et esp\u00e9rer<\/em> uses the moral of the story to pay homage to the novel\u2019s hero with an addictive \u201chighly original walnut and vetiver accord.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Attendre-et-esperer.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-41470\" style=\"width:350px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Attendre-et-esperer.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Attendre-et-esperer-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/Attendre-et-esperer-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>And what about the future?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Will the trend gradually run out of steam? It is not hard to imagine that the latest releases will go on to inspire other perfumers. Especially, as Mathilde Bijaoui points out, because \u201cthese facets are stepping in where sugary notes left off and continuing to explore the gourmand dimension.\u201d But above and beyond their material contribution, a new approach to playing with the olfactory texture of fragrances seems to be emerging. The creative process does not always need new notes for inspiration, but rather a fresh take on what already exists:<em> <\/em>\u201cI\u2019m convinced that there\u2019s still plenty to be done with classics like the tonka bean or immortelle, which is quite capable of adding a gourmand touch,\u201d suggests Anatole Lebreton.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"speaker-mute footnotes_reference_container\"> <div class=\"footnote_container_prepare\"><p><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_label pointer\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_41486_1();\">Notes<\/span><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button\" style=\"display: none;\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_41486_1();\">[<a id=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_41486_1\">+<\/a>]<\/span><\/p><\/div> <div id=\"footnote_references_container_41486_1\" style=\"\"><table class=\"footnotes_table footnote-reference-container\"><caption class=\"accessibility\">Notes<\/caption> <tbody> \r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_41486_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_41486_1_1');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_41486_1_1\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>1<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">See Vald\u00e9s Garc\u00eda A, S\u00e1nchez Romero R, Juan Polo A, Prats Moya S, Maestre P\u00e9rez SE, Beltr\u00e1n Sanahuja A.,<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov\/pmc\/articles\/PMC8308100\/\"> Volatile Profile of Nuts, Key Odorants and Analytical Methods for Quantification<\/a>. Foods, Juillet 2021.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n <\/tbody> <\/table> <\/div><\/div><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> function footnote_expand_reference_container_41486_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_41486_1').show(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_41486_1').text('\u2212'); } function footnote_collapse_reference_container_41486_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_41486_1').hide(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_41486_1').text('+'); } function footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_41486_1() { if (jQuery('#footnote_references_container_41486_1').is(':hidden')) { footnote_expand_reference_container_41486_1(); } else { footnote_collapse_reference_container_41486_1(); } } function footnote_moveToReference_41486_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_41486_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } } function footnote_moveToAnchor_41486_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_41486_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } }<\/script>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. Let&#8217;s take a look at their botany and history, as well as the latest releases featuring them, with Mane perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui and independent perfumer Anatole Lebreton. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12139,"featured_media":41577,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[1415,1416,6361],"tags":[7448,6961,5487,5489,6124,6116,7446,7449,7450,4758,7452,7245,7453,7442,7431,7456,6395,6084,7443,7455,7426,7430,7457,7445,7436,7458,931,6498,7454,7438,7459,4178,7460,7433,7461,7435,7462,7437,1066,7464,7440,7463,7432],"series":[],"ppma_author":[2930],"class_list":["post-41486","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-olfactory-culture","category-perfume","category-perfume-trends-the-notes-making-a-splash-today","tag-alexis-dadier-en","tag-alexis-dadier","tag-amouage","tag-amouage-en","tag-anatole-lebreton-en","tag-anatole-lebreton","tag-born-to-stand-out","tag-born-to-stand-out-en","tag-candle","tag-dries-van-noten","tag-ds-durga-en","tag-ds-durga","tag-essential-parfums-en","tag-essential-parfums","tag-kayali","tag-kayali-en","tag-kenzo-en","tag-kenzo","tag-loccitane","tag-loccitane-en","tag-lostmarch","tag-lostmarch-en","tag-marie-jeanne-en","tag-marie-jeanne","tag-marie-schnirer","tag-marie-schnirer-en","tag-natural-raw-materials","tag-poecile","tag-poecile-en","tag-profumo-di-firenze","tag-profumo-di-firenze-en","tag-ralf-schwieger","tag-recoltes-en","tag-recoltes","tag-snif-en","tag-snif","tag-soul-of-makeen-en","tag-soul-of-makeen","tag-synthetic-raw-materials","tag-tartine-et-chocolat-en","tag-tartine-et-chocolat","tag-vilhelm-parfumerie-en","tag-vilhelm-parfumerie","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Nuts and cereals: the new tasty treats - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Walnuts, hazelnuts, puffed rice and toasted granola are some of the all-new gourmand notes making their way into our bottles. 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