{"id":40870,"date":"2023-08-14T11:03:03","date_gmt":"2023-08-14T09:03:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=40870"},"modified":"2023-09-25T16:34:58","modified_gmt":"2023-09-25T14:34:58","slug":"mandy-aftel-joy-from-jean-patou-took-me-to-exotic-places-in-my-imagination","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/mandy-aftel-joy-from-jean-patou-took-me-to-exotic-places-in-my-imagination\/","title":{"rendered":"Mandy Aftel : &#8220;Joy from Jean Patou took me to exotic places in my imagination&#8221;"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_b7975ee4200301a7f95000c916f190c2\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\"><p>Some perfumes disappear as quickly as they appeared. And yet there are the perfumes that count, the ones that forever mark the life and career of a perfumer. Week after week, <a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/dossiers\/confidences-parfumees\/\">a number of them have told us about their relationship with a creation<\/a>, and its sometimes unconscious influence on their composing style.<br \/>\nToday, Mandy Aftel talks about <em>Joy<\/em> by Jean Patou, the scent her mother used to wear. An olfactory shock that inspired her vocation.<\/p>\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_b7975ee4200301a7f95000c916f190c2 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p>As with most people \u2013 whether consciously or not \u2013 my earliest memories and deepest emotions are saturated and inextricably bound up with scent. The aroma of <em>Joy <\/em>perfume, for example, evokes my mother kissing me goodnight as a child before she went out with my father on Saturday nights. A cloud of her signature perfume enveloped me, along with the animal undertones and infinite softness of her mink. I was entranced by the gold glinting from her dresser, with its phalanx of mysterious perfume bottles carefully arrayed on their mirrored tray,&nbsp;metallic charms with stylized writing hanging from their gilt-threaded necks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Her perfume \u2013 sophisticated, glamorous, made for the night \u2013 was like a siren&#8217;s song. <em>Joy<\/em>, created by Henri Alm\u00e9ras in 1929, is a concoction of intoxicating petals (jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, tuberose) in a warm, animalic base. The heady, narcotic aroma of those flowers took me to exotic places in my imagination.&nbsp;The profound resonance of that sense memory, and my awareness of the mysterious, primordial power scent holds over us all, laid the seeds for my creative path. And it is in this regard that scents \u2013 not just one scent \u2013 changed my life. The layering of essences \u2013 particularly those of flowers, and especially jasmine, with its complex \u201cyin and yang\u201d reconciliation of fecal and floral notes \u2013 spoke to my soul.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For my own perfumes, the quality of the natural essences and their intrinsic aromatic facets is essential. Because of that, I take great delight in sourcing my raw materials from small growers worldwide and comparing them, looking for the absolute best version of, say, rose or jasmine. When you create a floral perfume with an exclusively natural palette, each essence is so complex, and that complexity is magnified when you put several heady florals together.&nbsp;It is like trying to get a team of temperamental thoroughbreds to pull in harness together. But adding an animalic \u2013 say, a fine ambergris \u2013 tames the group, gets the florals to speak to one another with an otherworldly grace.<em>Joy, <\/em>which perfectly embodies this majestic balance, has influenced two creations in my line. <em>Parfum Priv\u00e9<\/em> depends on the symphony of four foundational notes: suave orange flower absolute and fruity osmanthus wrapped around musky ambrette and shimmering ambergris, with none taking a back seat to any other. I can also mention <em>Lumiere<\/em>, with a sheer and luminous texture, using only natural essences and isolates. It\u2019s my vision of a gorgeous floral bouquet of honeysuckle, boronia, magnolia and linden blossom in a base of green tea spiked with ambergris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Mandy Aftel, 15th of July 2023.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Nez recently published a <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/editions-nez\/nez-culture\/essences-alchimie-mandy-aftel\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">French version of <em>Essence &amp; Alchemy<\/em><\/a> translated by Sarah Bouasse.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\"><em>Main visual: \u00a9 Foster Curry<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Some perfumes disappear as quickly as they appeared. And yet there are the perfumes that count, the ones that forever mark the life and career of a perfumer. Today, Mandy Aftel talks about Joy by Jean Patou, the scent her mother used to wear. An olfactory shock that inspired her vocation.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10000972,"featured_media":40867,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[1415,1416],"tags":[7321,6219,6220,847],"series":[],"ppma_author":[7320],"class_list":["post-40870","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-olfactory-culture","category-perfume","tag-essence-alchemy","tag-henri-almeras-en","tag-jean-patou-en","tag-mandy-aftel-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Mandy Aftel : &quot;Joy from Jean Patou took me to exotic places in my imagination&quot; - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Some perfumes disappear as quickly as they appeared. 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