{"id":34099,"date":"2022-07-28T15:55:38","date_gmt":"2022-07-28T13:55:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=34099"},"modified":"2022-08-01T19:27:01","modified_gmt":"2022-08-01T17:27:01","slug":"perfumery-disoriented-part-1-ambery-or-oriental-a-family-story","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/perfumery-disoriented\/perfumery-disoriented-part-1-ambery-or-oriental-a-family-story\/","title":{"rendered":"Perfumery disoriented, part 1: Ambery or Oriental? A family story"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_62de6545dcb15\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">What\u2019s to be done with Oriental fragrances? For a few months now, the perfume world has been reflecting and taking a stand on the use of the adjective \u201cOriental,\u201d which can be perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. It is therefore time to take stock of what we smell and dream through this contested term, first by studying its uses and its olfactory meaning, then by digging into its scope in a colonial context. The first stage of our research will therefore address the olfactory and semantic issues at the origin of this family of perfumes, in order to better understand the ambiguities of its history.<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_62de6545dcb15 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p>The spring of 2021 saw an unprecedented shake-up in the Anglo-Saxon perfumery industry: Many critics and institutions announced they would stop using the descriptor \u201cOriental,\u201d well known in our latitudes.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the United States, The Fragrance Foundation, among the first, wanted in May 2021 to remove from its vocabulary this term considered \u201coutdated and offensive.\u201d <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_1');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_1');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_1\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[1]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_1\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Jessica Matlin, \u201cWhy Are We Still Describing Perfumes as Oriental?\u201d, Harper\u2019s Bazaar, May 26, 2021, online:&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_1');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_1').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_1', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> Australian historian Michael Edwards, who consulted laboratories, perfumers, brands and bloggers, spoke of the growing feeling in the perfume industry that the term \u201coriental\u201d is \u201coutdated and derogatory.\u201d <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_2');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_2');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_2\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[2]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_2\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;\u201cThe \u2018Oriental\u2019 category is being replaced by \u2018Ambery\u2019 on the fragrance wheel\u201d, Trendaroma.com, June 28, 2021, online:&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_2');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_2').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_2', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> A similar reflection was made in June by the American Mark Behnke <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_3');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_3');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_3\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[3]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_3\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Mark Behnke, \u201cImproving the Perfume Vocabulary for the Right Reasons\u201d, colognoisseur.com, June 23, 2021, online: https:\/\/colognoisseur.com\/improving-the-perfume-vocabulary-for-the-right-reasons\/&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_3');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_3').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_3', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> on his blog <em>Colognoisseur<\/em>, while in August the Council of the British Society of Perfumers published a statement in the same vein: The term is considered Eurocentric, outdated and derogatory.<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_4');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_4');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_4\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[4]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_4\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;Kira Haslett, \u201cBSP to Replace Fragrance Descriptor \u2018Oriental\u2019 With \u2018Amber\u2019\u201d, Perfumer &amp; Flavorist, August 9, 2021, online:&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_4');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_4').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_4', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>\n\n\n\n<p>The outrage continued into late December: On the website <em>\u00c7a fleure bon<\/em>, editor Michelyn Camen took up the subject in an article summarizing the year 2021, stating that \u201coriental [\u2026] is not a term to describe the way a perfume smells. It is outdated, insulting and not acceptable. Ambery, resinous, vanillic are some alternatives.\u201d Her text calls for a thorough renewal of our vocabulary, wishing \u201cby 2022 not to see the term on any website or used as a fragrance description,\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_5');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_5');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_5\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[5]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_5\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Michelyn Carmen &amp; Ermano Picco, \u201cBest Fragrances of 2021 (Ermano and Michelyn) + A Very Good Year Draw\u201d, \u00c7a Fleure Bon, December 26, 2021, online:&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_5');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_5').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_5', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> while allowing Ermano Picco to describe a new fragrance, a few lines above, in a disturbing way, as a \u201csmooth oriental with myrrh, fruity notes and a sparkling bergamot opening.\u201d The Fragrance Foundation is also the source of some contradictory statements, as the French wing of the institution continues to use the term that is incriminated in the United States in its communication. <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_6');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_6');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_6\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[6]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_6\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">\u00a0\u201cLes 7 familles de parfums\u201d, <em>The Fragrance Foundation France<\/em>, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.fragrancefoundation.fr\/education\/les-7-familles-de-parfum\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_6').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_6', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> The vocabulary thus presents itself in its resistance, in the constant and unconscious use we make of it when dealing with perfumery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is true that the American and French situations need to be distinguished. The initiatives of the Anglo-Saxon perfume industry are part of a broader movement, supported by Barack Obama himself when he passed a law in 2016 banning the use of the term \u201cOriental\u201d to describe people of Asian origin in government documents. <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_7');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_7');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_7\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[7]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_7\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;Madison Park, \u201cU.S. government to stop using these words to refer to minorities\u201d, CNN.com, May 22, 2016, online:&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_7');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_7').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_7', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> In France, home of the <em>Nez<\/em> editorial board, on the other hand, these considerations may seem a little remote: The usage decried by the Obama administration has been out of circulation for much longer. The French vocabulary now clearly disconnects the qualification of the origin of Asian people and the \u201coriental\u201d aesthetics of objects such as perfume. In the same way, in France, the Orient more spontaneously designates a cardinal point, the East, which is not the case for the Anglo-Saxons who speak of the \u201cMiddle East\u201d when French-speaking people speak of the \u201cMoyen-Orient\u201d or study at the INALCO, the National Institute of Oriental Languages and Civilizations.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/PA.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-34154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/PA.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/PA-300x240.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><figcaption>Advertisement for the Palmolive soap,&nbsp;<em>Red Book Magazine<\/em>, Vol. 18, N\u00b0 2, New York, USA, December 1911, private collection.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>It is therefore necessary to be particularly careful when importing and exporting an apparently simple word from one culture to another, even more as many discussions on fragrances use and abuse the term \u201coriental\u201d to the point where we no longer know what is included under the descriptor. Are we talking about scents, \u201coriental\u201d accords? About the origin of the raw materials? About the origin of perfumes, such as the expensive \u201couds\u201d prized in the Emirates but provided by another \u201cOrient,\u201d Southeast Asia, where the precious wood is produced? Or, more prosaically, are we talking about visuality, a design, such as the countless bottles adorned with black and gold, destined for the \u201coriental market\u201d?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Here lies the eternal problem of technical vocabulary: When a word is used to say everything, it ends up meaning nothing. However, the use of the term \u201coriental\u201d to refer to perfume has, in the past, designated more precise phenomena. In the mid-19th century, one could already read in <em>Le Charivari<\/em> the praises of the \u201crouge au carmin de Chine that Guerlain can boldly put next to the best products of oriental perfumery.\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_8');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_8');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_8\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[8]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_8\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Charles Philipon, <em>Le Charivari<\/em>, May 29, 1854.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_8').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_8', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> French perfumery was not yet concerned by the term: It was a matter of designating products from distant lands. It was not until the beginning of the 20th century that the brands themselves adopted the term in their advertising, especially those aimed at the American public. Guerlain\u2019s <em>Mitsouko<\/em> was presented in magazines as the perfume that captured \u201call the romance and lure of the Orient\u201d as early as 1922. <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_9');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_9');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_9\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[9]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_9\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Advertising for Guerlain, <em>Town &amp; Country<\/em>, Vol. 79, N\u00b0 3853, New York, USA, December 1, 1922, p. 19.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_9').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_9', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> Even before that, Palmolive soap announced its \u201coriental perfume\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_10');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_10');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_10\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[10]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_10\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;Advertising for Palmolive soap, <em>Red Book Magazine<\/em>, Vol. 18, N\u00b0 2, New York, USA, December 1911, p. 417.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_10').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_10', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> in 1911. Internal communication is gradually updated: When Firmenich presented its new Exaltolide molecule to French perfumers in 1934, it is finally described as perfect \u201cfor woody or ambery notes or for oriental or fantasy notes.\u201d&nbsp;<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_11');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_11');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_11\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[11]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_11\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\"><em>Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie<\/em>, August 1939, 17th year, n\u00b0 8, not paginated.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_11').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_11', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>\n\n\n\n<p>A part of French perfumery thus progressively became \u201coriental,\u201d drawing on an exotic imagination that gave birth to Guerlain\u2019s <em>Shalimar<\/em> in 1925, but also to <em>Opium<\/em> by Yves Saint Laurent in 1977 and <em>Poison<\/em> by Christian Dior in 1985. Although these perfumes brought the oriental family back into fashion in the 1980s, the category is now decried. The olfactory compositions themselves are not criticized, but what is hidden behind the term \u201coriental\u201d is disturbing, irritating and sometimes frightening. The following article will therefore try to understand why this olfactory family is nowadays laconically presented as \u201cpejorative\u201d or \u201cderogatory.\u201d Can we rethink the classification of fragrances? Should perfumery be reinvented in light of the new controversies?<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"538\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Im-1024x538.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-34167\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Im-1024x538.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Im-300x158.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Im-768x403.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Im.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Left : Advertisement for&nbsp;Guerlain&#8217;s <em>Shalimar<\/em>,&nbsp;<em>Town &amp; Country<\/em>, New York, USA, Vol. 122, N\u00b0 4550, September 1968;<br>Right : Advertisement for&nbsp;Guerlain&#8217;s <em>Shalimar<\/em>,&nbsp;<em>Seventeen<\/em>, New York, USA, Vol. 38, N\u00b0 9, September 1979.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p>In order to answer these questions, two detours will be necessary: The first one goes through the theory of the classification of perfumes, the second through the study of Orientalism. Our first work will therefore be to distinguish between the analysis of discourses on perfume and the study of scents themselves, while seeking inspiration from perfume specialists \u2013 because this is perhaps where we should start: What do the theorists who use the term \u201coriental\u201d say?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Family names<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If the perfumer Edmond Roudnitska (1905-1996) is above all known for his <em>Eau d&#8217;Herm\u00e8s<\/em> (1951), <em>Diorissimo <\/em>(1956) or <em>Eau sauvage<\/em> (1966), he was also one of the great theoreticians of perfume aesthetics, author of the classic <em>Le Parfum<\/em> in 1980. In this book he proposed a \u201cpractical classification of perfumes\u201d which is composed of \u201csome main groups: Floral, Chypre, Ambery, Tobacco, Woody, Aldehydic, Spicy, Fruity, Leathery, Green, Fresh, with all the combinations of these groups with each other.\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_12');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_12');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_12\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[12]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_12\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;Edmond Roudnitska, <em>Le Parfum<\/em>, Paris, PUF, 1980, p. 11.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_12').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_12', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> But in Roudnitska\u2019s seminal writings, there is no trace of the term \u201cOriental\u201d being used as an olfactory family or descriptor for a scent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Far from being marginal, his work is rather followed by the rest of the community: the Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 Fran\u00e7aise des Parfumeurs (SFP)<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_13');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_13');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_13\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[13]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_13\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">\u201cLes familles olfactives\u201d, <em>Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 fran\u00e7aise des parfumeurs<\/em>, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.parfumeurs-createurs.org\/fr\/filiere-parfum\/les-familles-olfactives-102<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_13').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_13', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> has been using a similar vocabulary since 1984, still classifying different fragrances into seven families: citrus, floral, foug\u00e8re, chypre, woody, leather and amber-oriental. The old denomination used by the industry during the 20th century finds here a small place, without being able to satisfy the SFP, and for good reason: On the level of logic, of the \u201cclassificatory reason,\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_14');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_14');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_14\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[14]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_14\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">This question of epistemology is addressed by Patrick Tort in La Raison classificatoire, Paris, Aubier, 1989. A more specific approach to the classification of odors is proposed by Jo\u00ebl Candau &amp;&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_14');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_14').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_14', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> the term does not follow the tendency proposed by this list. Indeed, if one can distinguish two approaches to the classification of perfumes, one \u201colfactory\u201d and the other \u201cmetaphorical,\u201d it is indeed the olfactory approach that has been chosen by the SFP.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Perfume, between olfaction and metaphors&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The classification of smells, like many other things, is the subject of endless debate. Two tendencies nevertheless emerge: Either we can classify them according to an olfactory profile, by focusing our attention on what happens in the \u201cjuice\u201d and on the arrangement of raw materials (using the terms of the linguist Roman Jakobson, we can speak then of classification according to a \u201cmetonymic\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_15');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_15');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_15\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[15]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_15\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">We draw here on the seminal work of Roman Jakobson in \u201cDeux aspects du langage et deux types d\u2019aphasie\u201d&#8221; (1956), Essais de linguistique g\u00e9n\u00e9rale, trad. N. Ruwet, Paris, \u00c9ditions de&nbsp;&#x2026; <span class=\"footnote_tooltip_continue\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_15');\">Continue reading<\/span><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_15').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_15', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> scheme), or we can classify smells according to what the perfume evokes, by taking into account the fantasy that it conveys, a kind of poetic metaphor (Roman Jakobson speaks of a \u201cmetaphorical\u201d scheme). It is easy to understand that perfumers, fine connoisseurs of the raw materials, tend toward the first method, while amateurs, for whom perfumes are indissociable from the promotional and critical discourses that surround them, may have more affinities with the second.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The advantage of the \u201colfactory\u201d classification is its scientificalness: It allows to reason by contiguity. The perfumes of the same family are brought together by their olfactory arrangement alone: All the citrus fragrances are structured around materials extracted from citrus fruits (or imitating them); all the florals have a flower or a floral bouquet as their main theme; and so on. The second method of classification is poetic: It takes into account the perceived meaning of the perfumes, their \u201cmetaphorical meaning,\u201d which allows them to be grouped into families where the discourse on femininity, masculinity or even the Orient takes precedence. It is no more about taking \u201cscientifically\u201d into account the composition of perfumes, since it is perfectly possible to signify \u201cfemininity\u201d and \u201cthe Orient\u201d with ambery or floral or woody materials, this analogical dimension of perfume being always linked to a given culture. The citrusy smell of verbena or lemon, on the other hand, does not radically vary from Japan to Madagascar: A smell remains a smell, but what it evokes is subject to infinite variations.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"550\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/CH-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-34132\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/CH-1.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/CH-1-218x300.jpg 218w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Delettrez poster, <em>Amaryllis du Japon, the latest parisian perfume<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Memories of <em>Chypre<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The experience of classification shows us, however, that these two methods are not impermeably walled. Reasoning with the pure categories described above confronts us with certain limits that are also found in the SFP classification because beyond the \u201corientals,\u201d two categories still seem strange: the chypres and the foug\u00e8res.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Their names are strangely similar to those of the classes we have described as \u201cpoetic.\u201d The other families mentioned by the SFP refer to raw materials (such as floral extracts), but these refer to an \u201celder perfume\u201d with a founding accord: Coty\u2019s <em>Chypre<\/em> in 1917 and its accord of oakmoss, cistus-labdanum, patchouli, bergamot; and Houbigant\u2019s <em>Foug\u00e8re royale<\/em> in 1882 and its accord of lavender, oakmoss, coumarin, bergamot and geranium. If in some ways it is still about recalling scents, an ambiguity is introduced here: It is no longer a question of reproducing by imitation of raw materials, but of culturally constructed accords, which have known a more restricted circulation in time and space, these \u201cchypres\u201d and \u201cfoug\u00e8res\u201d being specific to modern Western perfumery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Initially they were smells, not metaphors, but these smells gradually became pure ideas: Who really remembers the original accords? Certainly not non-Westerners who have never smelled these perfumes. As for us, how many of us, even among perfumers, have experienced the original <em>Chypre<\/em> or <em>Foug\u00e8re royale<\/em> to verify that a classification is correct? It is likely that today we live much more with the idea of these perfumes, of their place in the olfactory landscape, than with their founding accords. It is as if the initial olfactory analysis of <em>Foug\u00e8re royale<\/em> and <em>Chypre<\/em> had gradually solidified into a purely metaphorical approach. It is clear: There is necessarily a \u201cmetaphorical\u201d element in olfaction, just as there is an element of olfactory analysis in all metaphorical classifications. <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_16');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_16');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_16\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[16]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_16\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Patrick Tort, <em>La Raison classificatoire<\/em>, <em>op. cit.<\/em>, p. 12.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_16').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_16', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Caught in amber&nbsp;<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If no olfactory profile is spontaneously assimilated to the \u201cOrient,\u201d it should also be noted that this olfactory family does not take its name from a founding perfume either. The term \u201cambery,\u201d on the other hand, appears to be a more appropriate name for three reasons: Firstly, ambergris has been a key material in perfumery for thousands of years; secondly, this material inspired Georges de Laire to create the base \u201cAmbre 83,\u201d a complex mixture of synthetic vanillin and natural ingredients such as labdanum, vetiver, patchouli and synthetic musks, which is used in numerous scents; and finally, there is a founding perfume of the \u201cambery\u201d line, <em>Ambre antique<\/em> by Fran\u00e7ois Coty, launched in 1908, which, as its name indicates, draws on an imaginary time different than that of the \u201cOrient.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is probably with this history in mind that Jean-Claude Ellena, following Edmond Roudnitska in his discourses on the aesthetics of perfume, also puts forward the ambery scents in his book <em>Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent.<\/em> <span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_17');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_17');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_17\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[17]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_17\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent<\/em>, translated by John Crisp, New York, Arcade Publishing, 2011.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_17').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_17', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> He recalls that the word \u201camber\u201d refers to a base, a combination of a few substances, to the accord present \u201cin amber perfumes that are sometimes called orientals.\u201d The perfumer takes the time to explain his choice of vocabulary, evoking his mistrust of categories that imprison us in \u201cstereotyped mythical aromas of the Orient as seen through Western eyes.\u201d<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_18');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_18');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_18\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[18]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_18\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent<\/em>, <em>op. cit.<\/em> &amp; Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Le Parfum<\/em>, Paris, PUF, 2007, p. 53.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_18').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_18', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> Without naming it, this clarification appears as a nod to a book by the American academic Edward Said published in 1978: <em>Orientalism<\/em><span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_19');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_34099_1('footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_19');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_19\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[19]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_19\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Edward Said, <em>Orientalism <\/em>[1978]<em>, <\/em>London, Penguin Books, 2003.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_19').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_34099_1_19', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>, a reference text on the question of the dreamed Orient which, without dealing directly with perfume, still resonates with a disturbing relevance today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The debate could end here for those who are only concerned with the classification of scents, as the notion of \u201camber\u201d seems to be both satisfactory and long-established: Its metaphorical charge is sufficiently weak to allow serious reflection on the structure of European perfumery. But it already reveals a situated look at the olfactory question: What does \u201camber\u201d mean for the history of Mexican, Egyptian or Kanak perfumery, and even for us who have neither known <em>Ambre antique<\/em> nor the original smell of the \u201cAmbre 83\u201d base? In order to widen the spectrum of perfumes that we can distinguish, embrace, understand, because they come from elsewhere, it is necessary to rethink the current classifications, including those that seem the most \u201cpolitically correct.\u201d This cannot be done without welcoming the actors of other horizons, the perfumers foreign to the Western olfactory culture, the continuators of perfume traditions we perhaps have never heard of. In order to understand the determinations of the metaphorical side of perfumery, as well as contemporary claims, it is, however, necessary to rethink the relationship between the history of perfume and Orientalism, which is the subject of Part 2.<\/p>\n<div class=\"speaker-mute footnotes_reference_container\"> <div class=\"footnote_container_prepare\"><p><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_label pointer\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_34099_1();\">Notes<\/span><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button\" style=\"display: none;\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_34099_1();\">[<a id=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_34099_1\">+<\/a>]<\/span><\/p><\/div> <div id=\"footnote_references_container_34099_1\" style=\"\"><table class=\"footnotes_table footnote-reference-container\"><caption class=\"accessibility\">Notes<\/caption> <tbody> \r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_1');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_1\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>1<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Jessica Matlin, \u201cWhy Are We Still Describing Perfumes as Oriental?\u201d, <em>Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, May 26, 2021, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.harpersbazaar.com\/beauty\/a36503673\/oriental-perfume-and-fragrance-backlash\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_2');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_2\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>2<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;\u201cThe \u2018Oriental\u2019 category is being replaced by \u2018Ambery\u2019 on the fragrance wheel\u201d, <em>Trendaroma.com<\/em>, June 28, 2021, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.trendaroma.com\/the-oriental-category-is-disappearing-from-the-fragrance-wheel\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_3');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_3\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>3<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Mark Behnke, \u201cImproving the Perfume Vocabulary for the Right Reasons\u201d, <em>colognoisseur.com<\/em>, June 23, 2021, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/colognoisseur.com\/improving-the-perfume-vocabulary-for-the-right-reasons\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_4');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_4\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>4<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;Kira Haslett, \u201cBSP to Replace Fragrance Descriptor \u2018Oriental\u2019 With \u2018Amber\u2019\u201d, <em>Perfumer &amp; Flavorist<\/em>, August 9, 2021, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.perfumerflavorist.com\/fragrance\/ingredients\/news\/21877642\/bsp-to-replace-fragrance-descriptor-oriental-with-amber<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_5');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_5\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>5<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Michelyn Carmen &amp; Ermano Picco, \u201cBest Fragrances of 2021 (Ermano and Michelyn) + A Very Good Year Draw\u201d, <em>\u00c7a Fleure Bon<\/em>, December 26, 2021, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.cafleurebon.com\/best-fragrances-of-2021-ermano-and-michelyn-a-very-good-year-draw\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_6');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_6\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>6<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">\u00a0\u201cLes 7 familles de parfums\u201d, <em>The Fragrance Foundation France<\/em>, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.fragrancefoundation.fr\/education\/les-7-familles-de-parfum\/<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_7');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_7\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>7<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;Madison Park, \u201cU.S. government to stop using these words to refer to minorities\u201d, <em>CNN.com<\/em>, May 22, 2016, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/edition.cnn.com\/2016\/05\/22\/politics\/obama-federal-law-minorities-references\/index.html<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_8');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_8\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>8<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Charles Philipon, <em>Le Charivari<\/em>, May 29, 1854.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_9');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_9\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>9<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Advertising for Guerlain, <em>Town &amp; Country<\/em>, Vol. 79, N\u00b0 3853, New York, USA, December 1, 1922, p. 19.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_10');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_10\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>10<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;Advertising for Palmolive soap, <em>Red Book Magazine<\/em>, Vol. 18, N\u00b0 2, New York, USA, December 1911, p. 417.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_11');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_11\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>11<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\"><em>Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie<\/em>, August 1939, 17th year, n\u00b0 8, not paginated.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_12');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_12\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>12<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;Edmond Roudnitska, <em>Le Parfum<\/em>, Paris, PUF, 1980, p. 11.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_13');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_13\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>13<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">\u201cLes familles olfactives\u201d, <em>Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 fran\u00e7aise des parfumeurs<\/em>, online: <span class=\"footnote_url_wrap\">https:\/\/www.parfumeurs-createurs.org\/fr\/filiere-parfum\/les-familles-olfactives-102<\/span> (accessed on 03\/01\/2022).<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_14');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_14\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>14<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">This question of epistemology is addressed by Patrick Tort in <em>La Raison classificatoire<\/em>, Paris, Aubier, 1989. A more specific approach to the classification of odors is proposed by Jo\u00ebl Candau &amp; Olivier Wathelet in \u201cLes cat\u00e9gories d\u2019odeurs en sont-elles vraiment ?\u201d, <em>Langages<\/em>, n\u00b0 181, 2011, p. 37-52.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_15');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_15\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>15<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">We draw here on the seminal work of Roman Jakobson in \u201cDeux aspects du langage et deux types d\u2019aphasie\u201d&#8221; (1956), <em>Essais de linguistique g\u00e9n\u00e9rale<\/em>, trad. N. Ruwet, Paris, \u00c9ditions de Minuit, 1963, p. 43-67. As Patrick Tort points out, this text is a first-rate clarification of the foundations of classification, even if the term is not specifically mentioned.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_16');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_16\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>16<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Patrick Tort, <em>La Raison classificatoire<\/em>, <em>op. cit.<\/em>, p. 12.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_17');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_17\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>17<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent<\/em>, translated by John Crisp, New York, Arcade Publishing, 2011.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_18');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_18\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>18<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Perfume: The Alchemy of Scent<\/em>, <em>op. cit.<\/em> &amp; Jean-Claude Ellena, <em>Le Parfum<\/em>, Paris, PUF, 2007, p. 53.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_34099_1_19');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_34099_1_19\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>19<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Edward Said, <em>Orientalism <\/em>[1978]<em>, <\/em>London, Penguin Books, 2003.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n <\/tbody> <\/table> <\/div><\/div><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> function footnote_expand_reference_container_34099_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_34099_1').show(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_34099_1').text('\u2212'); } function footnote_collapse_reference_container_34099_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_34099_1').hide(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_34099_1').text('+'); } function footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_34099_1() { if (jQuery('#footnote_references_container_34099_1').is(':hidden')) { footnote_expand_reference_container_34099_1(); } else { footnote_collapse_reference_container_34099_1(); } } function footnote_moveToReference_34099_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_34099_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } } function footnote_moveToAnchor_34099_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_34099_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } }<\/script>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>For the past few months, the perfume world has been taking a stand on the use of the adjective \u201cOriental,\u201d which is perceived as potentially offensive to certain populations. 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