{"id":32737,"date":"2022-06-07T23:02:25","date_gmt":"2022-06-07T21:02:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=32737"},"modified":"2022-06-08T17:43:25","modified_gmt":"2022-06-08T15:43:25","slug":"liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos\/","title":{"rendered":"Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_629f19222b8ec\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">After starting out online, in 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. It offers a selection of around sixty brands and a resolutely different approach to sales and customer experience. Interview with Liam Sardea, graduate researcher in aesthetic philosophy at the University of Melbourne and education manager at LKNU.<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_629f19222b8ec {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>Tell us how LKNU&nbsp;came about?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The driving force came from something that happened to our founder, Lee, who used to be an accountant but switched and became a special effects make-up artist. One day she wanted to buy a perfume for a special occasion, and realised that buying perfume in Melbourne was nothing like buying perfume in Paris or elsewhere in Europe: her choice was pretty limited, and the same could be said about the quality of the advice she was given. You have to realise that the olfactory culture here is nothing like in France. In the end Lee chose <em>Fracas<\/em> by Piguet \u2013 which is a great scent! But the whole process got her thinking about the experience offered to the growing number of people in Australia who are interested in perfume. Ultimately this led to her wanting to open her own store. LKNU started out online in 2015 and moved to a physical store in 2021, the minute that lockdown was lifted. My job title as education manager and my in-store role both focus on LKNU\u2019s overriding ambition: to promote olfactory culture, transmit knowledge about perfumes to people eager to learn, and raise standards in how we communicate with our customers. The language of olfaction tends to feel excluding by people who think they don\u2019t know the codes. But it is perfectly possible to create a dialogue without using it. I always say to our customers: \u201ceven when you tell me the wrong thing, it brings me closer to the right thing.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How do you go about choosing the brands that you sell?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s really important that the people who work here really believe in the brands that we sell. Because we\u2019re a small team we\u2019ve been able to create a selection process that involves all our staff. We meet regularly to talk and discuss ideas. Everybody speaks up for or against what other people are suggesting, and we try hard to reach a consensus. These meetings are the first stage where we put into practice our belief that everybody has something to say when it comes to perfume. And no logic or pre-set criteria are involved when we choose the brands to submit to these selection sessions,&nbsp;a new discovery will always be a surprise. We are totally open-minded in terms of creative concepts, but we only put forward the ones that have genuine qualities in and of themselves. One the other hand, we are committed to presenting not just perfumes coming from France or Italy; for example, we have a number of Thai brands.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What appeals to Melbourne\u2019s niche perfume aficionados?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Personally I divide them into two categories: first you\u2019ve got people who wear <em>Santal 33<\/em> by Le Labo and <em>Baccarat rouge 540<\/em> by Francis Kurkdjian; these are perfume lovers who follow trends and enjoy high-impact scents with instant charm. Then there are people who want to smell \u201cdifferent\u201d. European olfactory culture is, finally, starting to take root in Australia. We have people here on the lookout for interesting original creations. I like to think that at LKNU we\u2019re helping to shift the dial, one customer at a time. That we\u2019re giving people a chance to discover that perfume is more than just smelling nice, it can tell a story, convey a message, express a personality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How would you define the experience you provide to your customers?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>First of all, we start from the idea that our store is a safe space, somewhere they can try things out freely and securely. The idea is to make our customers feel sufficiently at ease that it\u2019s then possible to suggest things outside of their \u201ccomfort zone\u201d. I like to remind that Australians are omnivores: in Melbourne, for example, we\u2019re used to enjoying a very wide range of cuisines. They\u2019re available to you any place, any time, day or night. It\u2019s important to remember, because this open-mindedness really does make it easier to guide people towards creations that are different, so long as you go about it gently. You just have to find the right connections. For example, if I\u2019m advising somebody who\u2019s wearing <em>Portrait of a Lady<\/em> by \u00c9ditions de parfums Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle, a baroque style patchouli rose, I\u2019d ask myself how to slip in a new element without radically changing the overall effect: maybe with an oakmoss rose like <em>Eau suave<\/em> by Parfum d\u2019empire. Or perhaps <em>Rose Oud<\/em> by Nicola\u00ef. Basically, at LKNU we offer a universe without predefined constellations. We try to help each customer to make connections, to spot a shape that make sense to them. We try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What drives your customers to step through the door at LKNU?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Well, for one thing our store is beautiful! It\u2019s easy to move around in and the lighting reflects the materials used, light oak and velvet. And the mirrors, on the ceiling, walls and display tables, give a sense of space and airiness. It\u2019s a very relaxed vibe. And then there\u2019s the sense of freedom we try to transmit to people who visit our store. We encourage them to look around and explore, we never pressure them to buy. Finding a perfume that speaks to your soul can take a bit of time. We combine the luxury of time with the luxury of space.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/LKNU-Emporium-18th-November-2021_GRIFFIN-SIMM_FULL-RES-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-32735\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/LKNU-Emporium-18th-November-2021_GRIFFIN-SIMM_FULL-RES-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/LKNU-Emporium-18th-November-2021_GRIFFIN-SIMM_FULL-RES-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/LKNU-Emporium-18th-November-2021_GRIFFIN-SIMM_FULL-RES-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/LKNU-Emporium-18th-November-2021_GRIFFIN-SIMM_FULL-RES.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>What are the obstacles that can hold your customers back?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Something we often notice, particularly with men, is a type of fear. I read this as the natural consequence of a series of failed experiments: there\u2019s nothing worse than popping into a perfumery and getting told off because you don\u2019t use the correct terminology, a bit like being back at school. It\u2019s something many men have already had to deal with. And it results in customers who feel nervous. At the end of the day, it is, as ever, a language problem: they\u2019re scared of saying the wrong thing, of not being understood. At LKNU we encourage customers to use the words they want, because their personal references, how they choose to express things, are all precious clues for our sales team.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What do you do about a perfume that fails to sell as well as you\u2019d hoped?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Every perfume has its day. If it was chosen with care, and has genuine intrinsic qualities, then we are certain that its day will come.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8212;<br>Find out about more about LKNU: <a href=\"https:\/\/lknu.com.au\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">https:\/\/lknu.com.au\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">REPORT \u00ab NICHE AND CONFIDENCES \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage\/\">Niche perfumery moves centre stage<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"31260\" href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/sylviane-lust-beauty-by-kroonen-nous-choisissons-des-parfums-complexes-qui-evoluent-sur-la-peau-et-ou-la-liberte-offerte-au-parfumeur-est-perceptible\/\">Sylviane Lust (Beauty by Kroonen) : \u201cWe choose complex fragrances that evolve on the skin, and that tell you the perfumer has been given a free hand.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/karine-torrent-floratropia-in-my-view-100-natural-perfumery-is-the-new-niche-in-perfumery\/\">Karine Torrent (Floratropia) : \u201cIn my view, 100% natural perfumery is the new niche\u201d,<\/a> by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one\/\">Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d<\/a>, by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/serge-laugier-le-paravent-its-important-to-me-to-offer-the-more-niche-fragrances-because-they-always-have-an-unique-olfactory-signature\/\">Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): \u201cIt\u2019s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have an unique olfactory signature\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses\/\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/pissara-umavijani-dusita-the-hardest-thing-for-a-perfumer-is-expressing-your-signature-style-in-different-registers\/\">Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): \u201cThe hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers\u201d,<\/a> by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/clara-feder-and-michel-gutsatz-le-jardin-retrouve-were-trying-to-build-a-balanced-collection-while-sticking-to-our-motto-avant-garde-as-a-legacy\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouv\u00e9): \u201cWe\u2019re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos\/\">Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/dhaher-bin-dhaher-tola-im-spending-more-and-more-of-my-time-breaking-down-barriers-between-olfactory-cultures\/\">Dhaher bin Dhaher (Tola): \u201cI\u2019m spending more and more of my time breaking down barriers between olfactory cultures\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty\/\">Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d,<\/a> by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/franco-wright-luckyscent-ultimately-customers-see-how-the-niche-category-pushes-fragrance-in-more-interesting-directions\/\">Franco Wright (Luckyscent): \u201cUltimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/luca-maffei-atelier-fragranze-milano-niche-perfumery-allows-me-to-take-risks\/\">Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): \u201cNiche perfumery allows me to take risks\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/murat-katran-and-mert-guzel-nishane-istanbul-is-literally-a-bridge-between-cultures\/\">Murat Katran and Mert Guzel (Nishane): &#8220;Istanbul is literally a bridge between cultures&#8221;<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/agnieszka-lukasik-galilu-now-the-brands-come-to-us\/\">Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): \u201cNow, the brands come to us\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. It offers a selection of around sixty brands and a resolutely different approach to sales and customer experience. Interview with Liam Sardea, education manager.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3145,"featured_media":32796,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[675,5259,1416,3123],"tags":[5939,5937,5938],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1126],"class_list":["post-32737","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-niches-confidences","category-perfume","category-reports","tag-liam-sardea-en","tag-lknu-en","tag-melbourne-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In 2021 independent perfumery LKNU opened its doors at a high-end mall in Melbourne. 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