{"id":32564,"date":"2022-06-09T00:53:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-08T22:53:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=32564"},"modified":"2022-06-09T11:34:03","modified_gmt":"2022-06-09T09:34:03","slug":"nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty\/","title":{"rendered":"Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_629c7c2832a43\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014. As somebody constantly searching for new aesthetic directions, she is powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. Interview.\r\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_629c7c2832a43 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>From 1986 to 2014 you were creating scents for brands such as Cartier, Versace and Azzaro, working first for Givaudan then moving to Symrise before setting up as an independent. What motivated you to make the change?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I was lucky enough to experience some of perfumery\u2019s golden years. Nobody was happier than I was on a Sunday night in the knowledge that I\u2019d be back in the office the following morning. I was short-listed for countless projects, I\u2019d had quite a few wins and worked with highly skilled colleagues and clients. In the early 2000s, consumer testing began to be used to guide the creative process. I wasn\u2019t against it on principle. But one day I suddenly felt my work had lost its meaning. I\u2019d had enough of needing to run 500 tests for a flanker that was just a touch more gourmand than the original. I no longer had any faith in briefs targeting \u201can opera-going woman who loves Labradors, the countryside and her husband.\u201d Not to mention the way perfumers were encouraged to compete against each other within the same company, which often verged on the ridiculous. Testing was no longer about picking the best concept, but merely about avoiding rejection. I was so powerless to stand up for my own creations that I decided I\u2019d set up as an independent. I wanted the freedom to explore new aesthetic avenues, something that niche lets me do on a daily basis. The name I chose for my company, LAB Scent, is followed by the motto \u201cscents that make sense.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>In what ways did this new departure alter your creative process?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I swapped gesticulation for singularity. When I still worked for the majors, I\u2019d spend my time smoothing out the rough edges, watering down my creations. Today, I\u2019m free to suggest something that has jagged edges. When I answer a brief, I\u2019ll often suggest a new slant, a sometimes unexpected approach that reflects what the client is asking for while setting off in a much looser direction. This can create disagreements but, honestly, people like it 95% of the time. Something else new is that my formulations keep getting shorter as the years go by.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You compose almost exclusively for niche brands. How do you prepare when you have a brief to tackle?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ve kept the same reflexes I had when I worked for the majors. I research the brand, ask for a sample kit so I can get a sense of their products and avoid suggesting a tuberose or leather fragrance if there\u2019s already one in their line-up. And then there\u2019s the other type of client, the ones who choose me when they\u2019re just starting out. This happens fairly often in the Gulf states. In those cases I\u2019ll suggest something traditional (perhaps oud, rose or saffron) alongside a few choices that are very different. This helps me to understand how far they\u2019re willing to stray from the classics. For<em> <\/em>Aedes de Venustas, my first proposals played with weathered olfactory notes suggesting leather and cashmere. They thought it was my signature style, but it was actually totally bespoke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You had an impressively vast choice of raw materials during your time with Givaudan then Symrise. Are things different today?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When I won the contract for <em>Blonde<\/em> by Versace [no longer in production], it involved buying large quantities of tuberose from a great many growers. But niche brands don\u2019t need to generate the same volumes. Production of a concentrate might amount to 10 to 15 tonnes for a mainstream brand, compared to 50 to 100 kilos for a niche label. I discovered the joys of searching for ingredients available in small quantities which, by definition, are of no interest to the big players. For instance, my main partner, Olivier Maure of Art &amp; Parfum, can source cascarilla, a bark with woody peppery notes that I used in <em>Odisiaque N\u00b06<\/em> by Sous le Manteau, and absolute of champak, palo santo or absolute of frangipani. For me, niche is a definition of beauty, the uncompromised choices of a creative director. I love leaning into rare ingredients as a way of bringing this vision to life. I\u2019m starting working for a new client in China. They asked for the first scent to be formulated using <em>pei lan<\/em>, better known as the fortune herb. I don\u2019t in any way see the request as a shackle \u2013 it actually nourishes my creative freedom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How much time do you spend on development?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Niche perfume houses, unlike in the mass market, don\u2019t spend two years mould-making or redesigning stoppers. All this time saved means they can keep the initial energy alive. That suits me fine. I hate endlessly fiddling and making micro-adjustments to my formulations. It\u2019s important to choose your battles, to know how to stop early enough. It takes me from three to six months to develop my fragrances. That\u2019s long enough to meet clients\u2019 demands while giving me enough time to get a sense of perspective about the results.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Right now, in mid-2022, if you had to pick just one trend in the niche sector, what would it be?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A little under a year ago, a good number of my French clients who had been using concentrations around 18% to 20% suddenly got in touch to ask for more intense versions with concentrations of 24%, 28% or even 30%. I\u2019ve seen the same thing happen in the Middle East, where, despite many people\u2019s preconceptions, lots of creations top out at no more than 20%. These clients say it\u2019s to do with lots of feedback from customers claiming that their perfumes are less tenacious. Firstly, I think that oud has altered the markers over the past 10 years, delivering a new degree of intensity that didn\u2019t exist before. It\u2019s a trend that has become widespread among my niche perfumery clients. Secondly, I feel that with the side effects caused by the pandemic, like anosmia and an impaired sense of smell, people are possibly seeking reassurance through more intense sensations. I don\u2019t have an answer. Whatever the reasons, I responded to their requests straightaway, while making sure that my formulations respected IFRA standards for concentrations of up to 35%.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What do you hope to get from Esxence 2022?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After a two-year hiatus because of the pandemic, it\u2019s even more important as the go-to event for catching up with many of my clients, who are spread across 40 different countries. Esxence gives you a chance to catch up with people you\u2019ve lost touch with, and to encounter new like-minded people. I love meeting the community of bloggers and people I message with on Instagram in the flesh. I also go to support niche brands that are presenting new products, like Alendor and Rebatchi, two brands I composed for recently.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>More about Nathalie Feisthauer: <a href=\"https:\/\/lab-scent.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">lab-scent.com<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">REPORT \u00ab NICHE AND CONFIDENCES \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage\/\">Niche perfumery moves centre stage<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"31260\" href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/sylviane-lust-beauty-by-kroonen-nous-choisissons-des-parfums-complexes-qui-evoluent-sur-la-peau-et-ou-la-liberte-offerte-au-parfumeur-est-perceptible\/\">Sylviane Lust (Beauty by Kroonen) : \u201cWe choose complex fragrances that evolve on the skin, and that tell you the perfumer has been given a free hand.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/karine-torrent-floratropia-in-my-view-100-natural-perfumery-is-the-new-niche-in-perfumery\/\">Karine Torrent (Floratropia) : \u201cIn my view, 100% natural perfumery is the new niche\u201d,<\/a> by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one\/\">Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d<\/a>, by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/serge-laugier-le-paravent-its-important-to-me-to-offer-the-more-niche-fragrances-because-they-always-have-an-unique-olfactory-signature\/\">Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): \u201cIt\u2019s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have an unique olfactory signature\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses\/\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/pissara-umavijani-dusita-the-hardest-thing-for-a-perfumer-is-expressing-your-signature-style-in-different-registers\/\">Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): \u201cThe hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers\u201d,<\/a> by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/clara-feder-and-michel-gutsatz-le-jardin-retrouve-were-trying-to-build-a-balanced-collection-while-sticking-to-our-motto-avant-garde-as-a-legacy\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouv\u00e9): \u201cWe\u2019re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos\/\">Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/dhaher-bin-dhaher-tola-im-spending-more-and-more-of-my-time-breaking-down-barriers-between-olfactory-cultures\/\">Dhaher bin Dhaher (Tola): \u201cI\u2019m spending more and more of my time breaking down barriers between olfactory cultures\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty\/\">Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d,<\/a> by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/franco-wright-luckyscent-ultimately-customers-see-how-the-niche-category-pushes-fragrance-in-more-interesting-directions\/\">Franco Wright (Luckyscent): \u201cUltimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/luca-maffei-atelier-fragranze-milano-niche-perfumery-allows-me-to-take-risks\/\">Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): \u201cNiche perfumery allows me to take risks\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/murat-katran-and-mert-guzel-nishane-istanbul-is-literally-a-bridge-between-cultures\/\">Murat Katran and Mert Guzel (Nishane): &#8220;Istanbul is literally a bridge between cultures&#8221;<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/agnieszka-lukasik-galilu-now-the-brands-come-to-us\/\">Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): \u201cNow, the brands come to us\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014, powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. Interview.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":21023,"featured_media":32512,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[675,5259,1416,3123],"tags":[5888,5892,5448,812,5902,3732,1087,5926],"series":[],"ppma_author":[3796],"class_list":["post-32564","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-niches-confidences","category-perfume","category-reports","tag-aedes-de-venustas-en","tag-art-parfum-en","tag-esxence-en","tag-givaudan-en","tag-nathalie-feisthauer-en","tag-non-classifiee-en-2","tag-symrise-en","tag-versace-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"After more than thirty years working with some of the best-known composition houses, Nathalie Feisthauer chose to set up on her own in 2014, powerfully drawn to niche perfumery since it gives her a greater degree of creative freedom. 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