{"id":31672,"date":"2022-05-27T19:14:57","date_gmt":"2022-05-27T17:14:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=31672"},"modified":"2022-06-12T16:15:35","modified_gmt":"2022-06-12T14:15:35","slug":"barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one\/","title":{"rendered":"Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_629103448dc95\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand\u2019s founder. <\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_629103448dc95 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>How did the Eris&nbsp;Parfums brand come about?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ve always been around and loved perfume, mainly thanks to my mother and grandmother. But it wasn\u2019t until 2008 that I took a more active interest in it, when I discovered a whole online subculture I found absolutely fascinating. I began collecting vintage fragrances and their ads. As a professional blogger for PopSugar, a popular culture online media network, I decided that I needed to write about perfume. I created my own blog, YesterdaysPerfume.com, which in turn inspired me to write a book: <em>Scent and Subversion: Decoding a Century of Provocative Perfume<\/em> (Lyons Press, 2013)<em>.&nbsp;<\/em> When I was writing a chapter of the book on perfume visionaries, I interviewed the perfumer Antoine Lie. I admire his creations, they\u2019re beautiful or more experimental, and sometimes both. We became friends. After falling in love with vintage perfumes, launching the blog and writing a book, I asked myself: \u201cwhat\u2019s the craziest thing I could do now?\u201d And the answer was: launch a fragrance brand! I wasn\u2019t looking to offer retro compositions as such: I wanted a sort of post-modern collection which paid tribute to vintage creations, the intense florals and animal notes of the past, but for a modern-day audience.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How did you come up with your first creations?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I wanted the fragrances to be bold and always have a twist. I had in mind this quote by Edgar Allan Poe: \u201cThere is no exquisite beauty without some strangeness in the proportion.\u201d And it was very clear to me that I needed to have at least one with animalic notes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You work exclusively with Antoine Lie. Why?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When I had the idea of creating a brand, I asked him if he was ready to follow me on this adventure. And he was. In the beginning I thought I would ask him to create the animalic composition I just mentioned and turn to other perfumers for the two other fragrances I wanted, a floral and a chypre. But I was so smitten with the first trials he proposed \u2013 animalic florals \u2013 that I decided to base my first collection on them. Working with him always made perfect sense. We\u2019ve always shared the same vision, right from the start, and over the years we\u2019ve developed a way of communicating that works incredibly well. Since my background isn\u2019t in the industry, I don\u2019t always have the vocabulary usually used in it, but I have smelled a vast number of perfumes and we have a lot of shared references.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What does your development process typically look like?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s often the name that comes first. And I have an olfactory vision of the perfume in mind. Then I create a moodboard with fashion images, stills from movies, photos of objects, and so on. I give it all to Antoine and also tell him which fragrances inspire me, the notes I\u2019d like him to use, and the effect I\u2019d like his proposed creation to have on the person smelling it. This emotional intention is very important. With all that, I can express what I want pretty clearly. Even so, it\u2019s always a surprise when I receive Antoine\u2019s trials. Until now, the development process spreads over a year on average.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How do you decide which direction your collection should take?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I don\u2019t really decide on a direction, things just fall into place by themselves. As I said, what I wanted to do initially was to develop three fragrances: a floral with indole notes, a chypre and an animalic perfume. Antoine started working on the third one, and when he submitted his trials to me I was stunned. It was the first time I\u2019d briefed a perfumer, and everything was so gorgeous. How could I turn down one of his concepts? It was impossible to choose. Since then I\u2019ve got a bit better at it! But back then I decided to keep all of them. <em>Ma B\u00eate<\/em> is the most literal expression of the animal theme \u2013 the most extreme, you could say \u2013 with its interpretation of the famous Animalis base, combined with other animalic notes like castoreum, civet and musk. <em>Night Flower<\/em> is a leathery floral that\u2019s something like a modern-day <em>Shalimar<\/em>, while <em>Belle de Jour<\/em> is a floral with a saltiness provided by a seaweed note, which I found really appealing the first time I smelled it.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What came next?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I was still working as a journalist in 2015 when the term \u201cMx\u201d entered the dictionary, as a gender-neutral honorific.&nbsp; It\u2019s a word that takes a modern approach to gender. I took an interest in it and even <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ibtimes.com\/mr-mrs-or-mx-oxford-english-dictionary-adopts-gender-neutral-honorific-1907977\">wrote about <\/a>it. It then became the starting point and name of my fourth perfume, launched in 2017, a woody fragrance that plays with notes traditionally considered as masculine and feminine. Then I felt like coming up with a more sombre, extreme version. In the meantime I stopped working as an editor and started working full-time on Eris. Antoine devised a more animalic composition based on the use of ambergris, with cocoa and vanilla supplying more gourmand facets. This darker fragrance, available as an extrait de parfum, became <em>Mxxx<\/em>. Then came <em>Green Spell<\/em>, an extremely green, joyous creation, and, very recently, <em>Scorpio Rising<\/em>, an explosion of spices. So even though no particular strategy is in place, it\u2019s true that, whether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Eris is sold in the USA as well as France, Germany and, soon, the UK. Does your presence in these different markets influence your creations?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Not at all. I keep up to date with the latest perfumery news, but I don\u2019t do any market research for my launches. The only thing that matters is going somewhere Eris has never been before.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Why are you taking part in Esxence this year?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Every week people get in touch with me to know when Eris will be available for delivery in their country. I try to answer their requests, but it would obviously be much better if they could test my fragrances and buy them close to where they live! So for my first appearance at the fair, my goal is to introduce myself to European and international distributors. To get them to smell the compositions, tell them about Eris and its history so they can see it\u2019s not \u201cjust\u201d a vintage perfume brand, or based only on animalic notes. And because there\u2019s a lot of instability at the moment, I also want to reassure them that I\u2019m here to stay: after two difficult years, Eris is still going strong. In fact it\u2019s actually doing better than ever right now, since I have a much better idea of what I want, and working with Antoine just keeps getting easier. The best is yet to come.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>More about Eris Parfums: <a href=\"https:\/\/erisparfums.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">erisparfums.com<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">REPORT \u00ab NICHE AND CONFIDENCES \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage\/\">Niche perfumery moves centre stage<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"31260\" href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/sylviane-lust-beauty-by-kroonen-nous-choisissons-des-parfums-complexes-qui-evoluent-sur-la-peau-et-ou-la-liberte-offerte-au-parfumeur-est-perceptible\/\">Sylviane Lust (Beauty by Kroonen) : \u201cWe choose complex fragrances that evolve on the skin, and that tell you the perfumer has been given a free hand.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/karine-torrent-floratropia-in-my-view-100-natural-perfumery-is-the-new-niche-in-perfumery\/\">Karine Torrent (Floratropia) : \u201cIn my view, 100% natural perfumery is the new niche\u201d,<\/a> by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one\/\">Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d<\/a>, by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/serge-laugier-le-paravent-its-important-to-me-to-offer-the-more-niche-fragrances-because-they-always-have-an-unique-olfactory-signature\/\">Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): \u201cIt\u2019s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have an unique olfactory signature\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses\/\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/pissara-umavijani-dusita-the-hardest-thing-for-a-perfumer-is-expressing-your-signature-style-in-different-registers\/\">Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): \u201cThe hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers\u201d,<\/a> by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/entretiens\/clara-feder-and-michel-gutsatz-le-jardin-retrouve-were-trying-to-build-a-balanced-collection-while-sticking-to-our-motto-avant-garde-as-a-legacy\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouv\u00e9): \u201cWe\u2019re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos\/\">Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/dhaher-bin-dhaher-tola-im-spending-more-and-more-of-my-time-breaking-down-barriers-between-olfactory-cultures\/\">Dhaher bin Dhaher (Tola): \u201cI\u2019m spending more and more of my time breaking down barriers between olfactory cultures\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty\/\">Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d,<\/a> by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/franco-wright-luckyscent-ultimately-customers-see-how-the-niche-category-pushes-fragrance-in-more-interesting-directions\/\">Franco Wright (Luckyscent): \u201cUltimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/luca-maffei-atelier-fragranze-milano-niche-perfumery-allows-me-to-take-risks\/\">Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): \u201cNiche perfumery allows me to take risks\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/murat-katran-and-mert-guzel-nishane-istanbul-is-literally-a-bridge-between-cultures\/\">Murat Katran and Mert Guzel (Nishane): &#8220;Istanbul is literally a bridge between cultures&#8221;<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/agnieszka-lukasik-galilu-now-the-brands-come-to-us\/\">Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): \u201cNow, the brands come to us\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. Interview with the brand\u2019s founder. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3145,"featured_media":31322,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[675,5259,1416,3123],"tags":[5266,5893,5444,5448,726],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1126],"class_list":["post-31672","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-niches-confidences","category-perfume","category-reports","tag-antoine-lie-en","tag-barbara-herman-en","tag-eris-parfums-2","tag-esxence-en","tag-niche-perfume","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Launched in 2016 by Barbara Herman, American writer and creator of the blog Yesterdaysperfume.com, Eris Parfums offers contemporary sillages with a bold style inspired by vintage fragrances, all created by independent perfumer Antoine Lie. 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