{"id":26043,"date":"2021-08-27T11:37:55","date_gmt":"2021-08-27T09:37:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=26043"},"modified":"2021-08-27T11:38:00","modified_gmt":"2021-08-27T09:38:00","slug":"celine-barel-tuberose-is-too-often-caricatured","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/celine-barel-tuberose-is-too-often-caricatured\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u00e9line Barel: \u201cTuberose is too often caricatured\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_610bc3f303f31\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">C\u00e9line Barel has been a perfumer at IFF since 2001, creating Aesop\u2019s <em>Tacit<\/em>, Zoologist\u2019s <em>Squid<\/em>, Jo Malone\u2019s Vanilla &#038; Anise, and Maison d\u2019Etto\u2019s <em>Canaan<\/em> and <em>Durban Jane<\/em>.<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_610bc3f303f31 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><meta charset=\"utf-8\">&#8212;<br><em>Interview from the chapter dedicated to the tuberose, in the book&nbsp;<\/em>From Plant to Essence \u2013 A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material<em>&nbsp;(see below)<\/em><br>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How would you describe the smell of tuberose?<br><\/strong>The fresh flower has a narcotic, almost hypnotic and highly complex scent, with sunny, creamy notes reminiscent of coconut, as well as green, fresh, spicy and animalic facets. These characteristics are found in tuberose absolute, along with the slightly medicinal edge which methyl salicylate and methyl benzoate bring.<br><br><strong>What is different about Tuberose Blooming?<br><\/strong>To produce this LMR-exclusive absolute, the flower is picked at dusk, at peak bloom, when its emission of olfactory molecules is highest. This particular process helps eliminate the traditional absolute\u2019s more medicinal and waxy facets, resulting in an olfactory profile which is much closer to that of the actual flower in the wild. Tuberose Blooming therefore brings its fruitier, lactonic, indolic qualities front and center, as well as highlighting its spicy, clove-like tones, all of which make it a more modern and seductive scent.<br><br><strong>How do you like to use it in a composition?<\/strong><br>It is a flower with many subtle layers, but sadly, it is all too often treated in the same way, caricatured in soliflores that reduce it to its lactonic coconut aspect, making it a bit \u201ccheap\u201d and obvious. For <em>Canaan<\/em>, which I composed for Maison d\u2019Etto, I challenged this stereotype by creating a unisex tuberose. I sublimated it by combining it with oud wood, with which it shares camphoraceous, leathery and earthy facets. Wonderfully flamboyant, it is a symbol of power that men can appropriate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>More about<strong> IFF \/ LMR Naturals :<\/strong>\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.iff.com\/portfolio\/products\/lmr-naturals\/overview\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">www.iff.com<\/a><\/strong><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-25820\" width=\"398\" height=\"398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-30x30.jpg 30w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-60x60.jpg 60w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 398px) 100vw, 398px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><strong>This interview is from<\/strong>:<\/strong><br><em>De la plante \u00e0 l\u2019essence \u2013 Un tour du monde des mati\u00e8res \u00e0 parfums<\/em><br><em>From Plant to Essence &#8211; A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material<\/em><br>(Fran\u00e7ais-English), Nez \u00e9ditions, Collectif, 2021,  45$\/30\u20ac<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Available for France and international:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nez-culture-nez-editions-english\/de-la-plante-a-lessence-un-tour-du-monde-des-matieres-a-parfums-collectif\/\">Shop Auparfum<\/a><\/li><li>Available for North America:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nez-editions.us\/products\/de-la-plante-a-lessence-a-world-tour-of-fragrant-raw-materials\">www.nez-editions.us<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>C\u00e9line Barel has been a perfumer at IFF since 2001, creating Aesop\u2019s Tacit, Zoologist\u2019s Squid, Jo Malone\u2019s Vanilla &#038; Anise, and Maison d\u2019Etto\u2019s Canaan and Durban Jane.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":25,"featured_media":26309,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[675,1416],"tags":[3405,873,931,3333,3406],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1125],"class_list":["post-26043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-perfume","tag-celine-barel-en","tag-iff-en","tag-natural-raw-materials","tag-simppar-the-international-exhibition-of-raw-materials-for-perfumery","tag-tubereuse-en","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - 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