{"id":20740,"date":"2020-09-26T12:04:11","date_gmt":"2020-09-26T10:04:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/?p=20740"},"modified":"2021-05-17T19:45:38","modified_gmt":"2021-05-17T17:45:38","slug":"the-role-of-the-in-house-perfumer-mathilde-laurent-cartier","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/en\/perfume\/the-role-of-the-in-house-perfumer-mathilde-laurent-cartier\/","title":{"rendered":"The role of the in-house perfumer &#8211; Mathilde Laurent (Cartier)"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_5f44f1524902b\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">Once they are recruited by a brand, perfumers become an integral and crucial part of a true ecosystem. Their role encompasses far more than composing the formula; from concept to packaging to communication, they are involved in every stage in the development of a new creation. And although they design the formula on their own, it is far from solitary work: it is enriched by daily conversations with various people, both in-house and externally, as explained by Mathilde Laurent, perfumer for Cartier since 2005.<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_5f44f1524902b {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>Where does the impetus for a new perfume come from?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At Cartier, we\u2019re like a family. I have a very close relationship with the senior management team and fragrance marketing department, but each of us has a specific role to play, we\u2019re all equals. The idea for a perfume doesn\u2019t come from one source which imposes it on the others, but from ongoing discussions: we tell each other, \u201cIt\u2019d be great to make this\u201d or, \u201cLook at this, an olfactory family we\u2019ve never explored.\u201d For <em>La Panth\u00e8re<\/em>,<em> <\/em>for example, L\u00e9a Vignal-Kenedi had just been appointed general manager for the house\u2019s perfumes, and she said to me, \u201cThis is unbelievably inspiring, we have to do something with it.\u201d More recently, Les \u00c9pures de Parfum collection was the fruit of a perfumer\u2019s desire, in this case mine, to put nature\u2019s scent into a bottle, in all its pure, untouched beauty. That\u2019s what\u2019s so great about working in-house: there are no power dynamics but instead a truly collegial approach, collaborative thinking. That\u2019s what creates the family atmosphere.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How does the development process play out?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once we\u2019ve decided on an initial idea, we work on it to define the concept. We put our heads together to think about the flask, packaging, story, and even the way we\u2019ll roll out the project in stores. Once we reach a sort of intellectual consensus, I start composing my fragrance in perfect harmony with the project. In the beginning, I\u2019m only helped by my assistant, Laetitia, as I get the olfactory idea in place. Unlike how it\u2019s done elsewhere, I don\u2019t have to develop multiple ideas for people to choose from, but only one, which is tailor-made for the project and house. Once the note begins to feel right, I get people to smell it, I talk about it with them, and take into account the comments I feel are relevant before reworking it.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Who are the main people you work with?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It depends on the period! In-house I can work very closely with someone for several years, and the day that person changes, so does the relationship, naturally. But my first port of call remains the marketing department and senior management team. And for the olfactory aspect of my work, I can turn to IFF, which is our partner. It means I benefit from the structure and all the resources of a big composition house and its comprehensive palette of ingredients, but also that I\u2019m less isolated as a creator: I have relationships with all the teams, depending on my needs, and perfumer friends I can talk to, which is crucial for nurturing my creativity, staying open, not \u2018drying up\u2019. I have to stay abreast of innovations and keep up with the developments of the perfume world.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Who decides that a fragrance is finished?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The conclusive olfactory sessions take place between the marketing department, senior management team, and myself. Together we decide what we\u2019ll present to Cartier\u2019s executive committee. Most of the time, the test sample we get them to smell is final, or almost. We may have to do some fine-tuning afterwards, but the idea isn\u2019t to get a \u201cI like\/I don\u2019t like it\u201d reaction, but rather to make sure that everything is going okay so we can finish the project with peace of mind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/2009-Nez-GrandLivreParfum-Mockup-02-EN-01.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-20815\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/2009-Nez-GrandLivreParfum-Mockup-02-EN-01.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/2009-Nez-GrandLivreParfum-Mockup-02-EN-01-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.bynez.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/09\/2009-Nez-GrandLivreParfum-Mockup-02-EN-01-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>This interview is from : <em>The Big Book of Perfume,<\/em> Collective, Nez \u00e9ditions, 2020, 40\u20ac<\/strong>\/<strong>$45<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Available for France and international: <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nez-culture-nez-editions-english\/the-big-book-of-perfume-nez-collective\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Shop Nez<\/a><\/li><li>Available for North America: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nez-editions.us\/products\/the-big-book-of-perfume\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">www.nez-editions.us<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Perfumers become an integral and crucial part of a true ecosystem and they are involved in every stage in the development of a new creation as Mathilde Laurent explains.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3145,"featured_media":21042,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"mc4wp_mailchimp_campaign":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[675,1416],"tags":[1090,1155,3119],"series":[],"ppma_author":[1126],"class_list":["post-20740","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-perfume","tag-perfume-development","tag-perfumer","tag-perfumers","pmpro-has-access"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - 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